Posts: 33 Threads: 7 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 13 Joined: Oct 2016 Reputation: 0 Basically receiver has 12 black pins on the right and then small white socket on the side and I have no idea which ones to use to connect it to my PDB and FC, I have attached below image with the receiver and diagram showing what needs to be connected on the PDB and FC. Can anyone help me and tell me what needs to be connected. Receiver has one cable as on the picture, both ends can be used on the receiver so this is not helping me either. • Posts: 307 Threads: 18 Likes Received: 69 in 48 posts Likes Given: 33 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 9 This is a picture how you can connect everything on your receiver if you want sbus and smartport If you don't use other FrSky smartport devices you will use only the yellow wire on the white connector, you can get the other wires out with a tweezer, you can connect the yellow wire to the TX from UART 3 on your FC, this gives you the possibility to get data from the FC to your Taranis. You have to plug in a connector on the same pins as you see on the picture with the same order. Then you have to connect the red wire to 5V on your FC or PDB, connect the black wire to the ground on your FC or PDB, and the white wire to the RX from UART2 on your FC. Maybe you can also tell what kind of FC and PDB you have so we can give you a better advice. Posts: 33 Threads: 7 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 13 Joined: Oct 2016 Reputation: 0 Thank you very much Ikkuh for the detailed explanation. I've BrainFPV RE1 with BrainFPV mPB and I have Tranis XD9 radio • Posts: 307 Threads: 18 Likes Received: 69 in 48 posts Likes Given: 33 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 9 That makes it a lot easier to make a clean build! You can stack your FC on top of your PDB, or the other way around if you want, and the FC will be directly powered from your PDB. Here you have a schematic how you can connect everything: So at the back side you have to solder the 5v receiver supply voltage and then you can connect the 3 wires from the X4R-SB to the receiver port that you see on the front side. For smart port you can connect the yellow wire to the TX/pwm 7. If you have more questions just let it know. Posts: 33 Threads: 7 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 13 Joined: Oct 2016 Reputation: 0 The simplicity and clean design was the reason I went with this FC, it's new player in the drones but I think they have a promising start, btw I'm new in it too Great stuff! I've already done the 5V bridge and soldered the 2 vertical connection pins and then the wires stopped me I'll do them next thing tomorrow. Thank you very much! If I have more questions I'll reach you. You're great man! • Posts: 307 Threads: 18 Likes Received: 69 in 48 posts Likes Given: 33 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 9 19-Jan-2017, 12:14 AM (This post was last modified: 19-Jan-2017, 12:15 AM by Dutch Drone Builder.) Welcome to the forum. And I like the idea of the FC and PDB very much, I would like to see the end result. If you solder a 3 pin on the other side of the PDB you will also get voltage and amperage reading in your FC, of you look close you see the pins. You see it in the picture in the front. And I'm glad that I could help you. • Posts: 1,773 Threads: 30 Likes Received: 1,199 in 755 posts Likes Given: 714 Joined: Oct 2016 Reputation: 45 I've got the RE1 and mPB in my 220X and yes, it's a very high quality product (made in the USA) Just one word of caution. Plan out exactly how your wiring is going to be connected including all your FPV equipment first. Then solder on all the wires for the mPB first. You have to solder on the 2 sets of header pins that connect the mPB to the RE1 so you only get one chance. Believe me, if you need to change anything, it's a MAJOR hastle to separate them. A lot of guys flash them with Betaflight right away, but personally I think the DRonin it comes set up for is excellent • Posts: 33 Threads: 7 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 13 Joined: Oct 2016 Reputation: 0 (19-Jan-2017, 01:19 AM)RENOV8R Wrote: I've got the RE1 and mPB in my 220X and yes, it's a very high quality product (made in the USA) Just one word of caution. Plan out exactly how your wiring is going to be connected including all your FPV equipment first. Then solder on all the wires for the mPB first. You have to solder on the 2 sets of header pins that connect the mPB to the RE1 so you only get one chance. Believe me, if you need to change anything, it's a MAJOR hastle to separate them. A lot of guys flash them with Betaflight right away, but personally I think the DRonin it comes set up for is excellent One question about installing the video transmitter, manual says: "If you place your video transmitter behind RE1, do not run the power and video wires inbetween RE1 / mPB and instead route them on top of RE1. Routing them inbetween can cause noise in the video." would routing them below the mPB be ok? • Posts: 1,773 Threads: 30 Likes Received: 1,199 in 755 posts Likes Given: 714 Joined: Oct 2016 Reputation: 45 (19-Jan-2017, 01:36 AM)FateTrader Wrote: One question about installing the video transmitter, manual says: "If you place your video transmitter behind RE1, do not run the power and video wires inbetween RE1 / mPB and instead route them on top of RE1. Routing them inbetween can cause noise in the video." would routing them below the mPB be ok? I don't think so, as it's the mPB that would cause the "noise" more than the RE1. Ideally on top or along the side would be best. One other thing to watch for is when you connect your video transmitter power, don't use the 12 volt out on the board as it has a very low mah output and you'll just get a snowy image with horizontal lines. Connect to the F pins beside it. This is full filtered power • Posts: 307 Threads: 18 Likes Received: 69 in 48 posts Likes Given: 33 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 9 Is it not possible to install some straight pin headers and a little bit longer spacer, so you are still able to remove the FC easier? • Posts: 33 Threads: 7 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 13 Joined: Oct 2016 Reputation: 0 19-Jan-2017, 01:18 PM (This post was last modified: 19-Jan-2017, 01:19 PM by FateTrader.) Would something like this maybe be a little better? of course shorter version • Posts: 307 Threads: 18 Likes Received: 69 in 48 posts Likes Given: 33 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 9 In my opinion it would be a good idea. This make the accessibility much better if it's necessary to repair something you can take it easily off. • Posts: 33 Threads: 7 Likes Received: 1 in 1 posts Likes Given: 13 Joined: Oct 2016 Reputation: 0 I've a problem with my X4R-SB I've connected it as instructed but when binding it with Taranis, I press and hold this little button and plug the battery, RX's both red and green led's light up and stay solid but only green should be solid and red should blink. Binding is not going through, I finished it few times without success. On my PDB I have 5V bridged just as manual instructed and all other connections are fine, I've checked them and re-checked. Any ideas what is the problem?? • Posts: 947 Threads: 66 Likes Received: 350 in 248 posts Likes Given: 164 Joined: Apr 2016 Reputation: 34 (28-Feb-2017, 01:26 AM)FateTrader Wrote: I've a problem with my X4R-SB I've connected it as instructed but when binding it with Taranis, I press and hold this little button and plug the battery, RX's both red and green led's light up and stay solid but only green should be solid and red should blink. Binding is not going through, I finished it few times without success. On my PDB I have 5V bridged just as manual instructed and all other connections are fine, I've checked them and re-checked. Any ideas what is the problem?? Hold the button while powering the receiver, put the taranis in bind mode and that should be it. I don't think it makes any difference which one you do first. You taranis will beep in bind mode. It is at the bottom of the first menu on the taranis • Posts: 947 Threads: 66 Likes Received: 350 in 248 posts Likes Given: 164 Joined: Apr 2016 Reputation: 34 also, make sure you have chosen D16 under mode. Here is a picture for reference: • |