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How to make a Smoke Stopper - SAVE YOUR ELECTRONICS !
#16
(28-May-2017, 03:50 PM)sloscotty Wrote: BTW, for 12V you should only use 3S to test your electronics - since you have 3S batteries, that shouldn't be a problem.

Ouch, what should I use when I have only 4S batteries and no workbench source? Could I put two of the recommended lightbulbs into serie? Or should I use different lightbulb?
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#17
Some people have used 2 smoke stoppers in series to test with 4s, but you will probably be safe with a single smoke-stopper and using a 4S that has been discharged to below 15V. (You're bound to have some of those around.) Big Grin

You might read the recently updated first post on the original article over at RCG: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthre...pper%C2%99-!
[-] The following 1 user Likes sloscotty's post:
  • Roobaiz
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#18
As mentioned above, the original post over at RCG has been recently updated - it's worth taking a look.  There is now a version with one bulb that can be used for both low-current testing (FC, esc initialization), and higher-current testing (spinning up motors).  It uses only the 5W element for low-current testing.
Here's the graphic:

[Image: 5kaRw8Yl.png]
[-] The following 3 users Like sloscotty's post:
  • Koval.drns, iFly4rotors, Drone0fPrey
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#19
Is there a reason people are soldering directly on the bulb? If this is an expendable item, for a reasonably likely part to fail, wouldn't you solder to a bulb lamp socket? Such as this: https://amzn.to/3WjgAM7
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#20
Another option for the bulb is to solder in a regular socket for the type
of bulb that you want to use; then you can just change the bulb.
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[-] The following 1 user Likes iFly4rotors's post:
  • Koval.drns
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