I have started tackling the assembly of my first build and it seems I have already run into a little bit of an issue; or maybe its just due to lack of experience/knowledge.

I have an ImpulseRC Apex 5" Frame (non-HD) with a SpeedyBee F7 V3 BL32 50A 30x30 Stack.  FC being the SpeedyBee F7 V3 and ESC being the BL32 50A 4-in-1 ESC.

I am using the Apex provided M3 20mm countersink stack mounting bolts, although I just noticed that SpeedyBee does provide 30mm stack mounting bolts.  Once the bolts go through the frame, they are then secured down with a M3 nylock nut. As you can see in the photo, this doesn't provide me with much space to move around.  Not to mention that its pretty tight when the FC is sitting on top of the ESC.  I am trying to think of creative way to approach mounting this, any ideas or insight would be much appreciated!

The ImpulseRC Apex Frame isn't the best frame to use for a first time build because when using a 30mmx30mm stack there isn't a lot of space left to play with. In your case there is still space above the end of the screws and the top plate so you can just use some longer screws. If you don't have any suitable ones then you will have to try and source some. Alternatively swap the rubber anti-vibration gummies in the holes of the ESC and FC for ones with a smaller height. I had to do this on my Micro Apex frame. If you do that then just make sure there is still clearance between the ESC and the FC without any danger of the components of each board touching each other.

hmmm you have provided some good info here. I am going to revisit this tonight and I will take a look at the gummies.
this also got me thinking about potentially going with another frame, something good for cruising and intro to freestyle - without having to purchase new hardware.
With that being said, do you have any recommendations on a frame given the hardware that I have currently amassed?

My current hardware list:
- FC - SpeedyBee F7 V3
- ESC - BL32 50A 4-in-1 ESC
- Motors - T-Motor F60 PRO V 1750KV (2207.5)
- Props - Ethix PB&J
- VTX+Camera - Caddx Nebula Pro Vista Kit - 720p/120fps 16:9/4:3 Low Latency HD for DJI
- Receiver - Radiomaster Ranger 2.4GHz ELRS Module (RP1 ExpressLRS 2.4ghz Nano Receiver)
- Batteries - 6S
- Transmitter - Radiomaster T16XS
- Goggles - DJI Goggles v2


I was currently considering moving to one of these frames:
1. SpeedyBee Master 5 5" FPV Frame
https://pyrodrone.com/collections/all-fr...oose-color

2. Armattan Beaver 5" FPV Frame
https://pyrodrone.com/collections/all-fr...rone-frame

3. GEPRC Mark5 Pro 5" FPV Frame
https://www.racedayquads.com/products/ge...7597843569

I have an Apex 5 HD frame still sitting in the packet but I've not got round to building it up yet. I might end up having to do the same as the Apex Micro by using shorter gummies for the stack boards. I guess I'll find out at some point.

All of those alternative frames you listed are all quality frames and I don't think you can go wrong with any of them TBH. If it was me then I would probably get the GEPRC Mark5 because that is already on my wishlist but I do like GEPRC frames in general so I probably have a bias towards them. The SpeedyBee Master frame is a real nice design as well and that is on my "think about getting" list under the GEPRC frame. The Armattan Beaver frame is a bit too expensive for me but you do get a lifetime warranty even if you damage the frame by crashing it so that is why. The warranty is only really useful for US customers because you still pay shipping for replacement parts which is $5 inside the US but ~$25 to the test of the world. I'm not in the US, so for that reason I don't usually take much notice of the Armattan frames.

Thanks for the solid information as usual dude!

As the owner of a GEPRC Mk4 6" and two GEPRC Mk5 5" (and other makes) I can thoroughly recommend that make. Parts fit well, components are good, and the design is sound.

However, your frame pictured looks to have a simple one piece top plate, and if the clearance to the stack is inadequate (and don't forget the battery straps), then lengthening the effective posts can be a way out at next to no costs. I have used a nut (not nylock) below the top plate on each screw on a couple of my conversions with other frames than GEPRC when moving them over to HD to get more height for a Vista.

My much loved and very heavily used EMax Hawk5 with only room for a single stack when converted to DJI ended up with doubled posts to get to the 40mm between plates required. Its not given any issues, not been damaged in groundings, and has resulted in NO adverse handling AT ALL.

Not made ANY noticable difference to the way they fly.

For building your own quads, a good supply of screws, allen screws, nuts, in 3mm and 2mm and many lengths are pretty much an essential to adjust to for a perfect fit to YOUR other components.

Good Luck.............

I built an Apex 5” analog and like Snow suggested it can get tight inside when using a 30 by 30 stack.

  I used a Hobbywing 60amp 4n1 and Radix 2 and had to do a lot of trial fitting.The unify Pro V3 vtx solved a lot of room problems.

  If you plan on using the integrated sma stand-off mount I highly suggest using the TBS unify Pro V3.
 
   There’s 95 apex builds on rotorbuilds.com that may save you some aggravation trial fitting parts.

It’s a great frame for sure and flies great too.
I’m thinking of getting the DC version for my next build.

I am uber guru of gummies and spacers.

I have squeezed stacks and VTX and receiver in the tiniest creveces.

90% of time, its matter of orientation.

ex. FC often have big gray inductor protruding. If its facing ESC, then cant get it closer. So could try turning or flipping board.. ofcourse have to set gyro.

Also, dry fit first. Use closest RX TX pads.
Also realize you DONT need to run 5V and ground separately for each thing. Can chain off.

First solder wires to FC or the thing first, and you can neatly run them, tack down, trim end, and solder down for tight fit. This avoids the common headache of 2-3 twisted bundles criss crossing making a bulky mess.