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GB190- 190mm XFrame Race Kit- one word: OVERKILL!!
#1
Build of the GB190 Ultimate Race Kit

GB190-190mm XFrame RaceKit click here for more info


The last kit gearbest came out with, already had some SERIOUS power, this kit is serious OVERKILL!!
Quick look at specs: Emax RS2205 2300kv motors, LittleBee 30AMP ESC's, all on a tiny 190mm XFrame...I'm scared to fly this  Confused

Included Contents
-GEP-ZX5 Carbon Fiber 190mm XFrame
-SPFRacing F3 10DOF Flight Controller
-EMAX RS2205 2300kv Motors
-LittleBee 30Amp 2S-6S ESC
-1000TVL Mini Camera
-5.8ghz 500mW VTX
-5.8ghz Circularly Polarized Antenna
-5045BN Triblade Propellers
-Power Distribution Board
-Misc. Hardware


BUILD IN PROGRESS...
[Image: D0B850CE-A557-4A3D-A75B-201E44E48B68.jpg]


Videos
Unbox
[MEDIA=youtube]pSxewYGG8Uc[/MEDIA]

Build Progress...

[Image: a9247323-62-1.jpg]

Frame

[Image: a9247324-96-2.jpg]

Arms are bolted to the frame

[Image: a9247325-128-3.jpg]

the screws are held on by an aluminum bracket

[Image: a9247326-32-4.jpg]

test fitting middle piece

[Image: a9247339-68-5.jpg]

test fitting top plate, this will hold the camera, VTX, and an action cam if you choose to

[Image: a9247340-219-6.jpg]

[Image: a9247341-252-7.jpg]

Frame is done

[Image: a9247342-157-8.jpg]

another shot of fully assembled frame

[Image: a9247373-191-9.jpg]

Installing PDB, I purchased my own PDB> this one comes with LC filter, BEC's, and OSD.

[Image: a9247375-19-10.jpg]

Flight controller test fit

[Image: a9247377-51-11.jpg]

More test fitting

[Image: a9247378-212-12.jpg]

[Image: a9247413-122-IMG_4834.jpg]

Installing ESC's: 30amp LittleBee ESC's for 2-6S LiPos, they might be a little to big for this frame

[Image: a9247418-190-IMG_4836.jpg] 

Removed Wires: motor side

[Image: a9247419-56-IMG_4835.jpg] 


For the latest RC Reviews: http://www.youtube.com/danknee
[-] The following 1 user Likes Danq0's post:
  • sloscotty
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#2
Looking good Dank0!  Can't wait to see the rest...[Image: nalMTQdl.gif]
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#3
Should be a quick machine. Is the camera CMOS or CCD?
Current quad: ZMR 250 / DYS SE2205 / Littlebee 20A ESCs / Drone Lab 1500 4S / Naze32 Rev5 / BF 2.7.1
FPV: Runcam Skyplus / Aomway 200mw VTX / Fatshark DomV1
>>>>>>>>>>Check Out My Build<<<<<<<<<<
Reply
#4
(14-Aug-2016, 11:03 PM)sloscotty Wrote: Looking good Dank0!  Can't wait to see the rest...[Image: nalMTQdl.gif]

Thanks, ill try to post up more pics asap

(14-Aug-2016, 11:29 PM)HamsterFPV Wrote: Should be a quick machine. Is the camera CMOS or CCD?

this thing is going to be a beast!

Surprisingly I can't find definitive answer anywhere, but I checked the gearbest site, and similar cameras were all cmos, so im betting on CMOS.


For the latest RC Reviews: http://www.youtube.com/danknee
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#5
Looks great , looking forward to the progress.


I like the GEP frames, I have the GEP-VX4 and think it is awesome. These GEP frames need a bit more exposure I think,

as to your 1000TVL camera, I agree, 99.9% sure it will be a CMOS camera
My youtube channel

[-] The following 1 user Likes BigglesFPV's post:
  • Himadri
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#6
Not so sure about the camera.  I've got this on a quad I'm currently building (from banggood):

[Image: cqjcd7Sl.jpg]

Just looked at the kit photos on gearbest.  I think you're correct - it's probably CMOS (the camera they sell on site only has a 2.1 lens, but it looks exactly the same as the kit camera otherwise).
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#7
yup its definitely cmos I browsed through GB and they have a slew of similar cameras ranging from 2.1 to 2.8mm. some for as low as 8 bucks!!

anyways here are some more pics...

soldered ESC's power and ground to PDB 

[Image: a9247420-87-IMG_4837.jpg]

~95% of the motor wire was cut off to be able to fit :o 

[Image: a9249642-11-IMG_4840.jpg]

Trimmed and soldered to ESC

[Image: a9249643-219-IMG_4839.jpg]

All motors soldered on

[Image: a9249645-142-IMG_4844.jpg]

took the lens off to install the carbon fiber plate which will attach to the other part of the camera mount

[Image: a9249646-175-IMG_4845.jpg]

CF plate screws on to this plastic bezel mount or whatever you want to call it

[Image: a9249647-112-IMG_4847.jpg]

the camera/mount is then inserted in to this. Loosening the screw allows you to adjust desired level of uptilit.

[Image: a9249648-16-IMG_4848.jpg]

VTX barely fits inside. The frame is actually supposed to hold the VTX  sideways (there is a hole on the side where the rp-sma connector sticks out of) but this VTX was a little too long. Sad

[Image: a9249649-49-IMG_4849.jpg]

Quick comparison:: 30amp littlebee left and 20amp LittleBee right. 

I think this kit should have gone with the 20amps, they provide plenty of power, and is the perfect fit for this frame. 
LittleBee 20amps ESC: http://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor-part...d=10007558

Due to limited space, I soldered ESC's signal and ground directly to the Flight controller.

[Image: a9249875-31-image.jpg]

[Image: a9249876-127-image-0c58b0d2.jpg]

[Image: a9255990-47-image-a0daee32.jpg]

put everything together, and realized I forgot to wire power to the PDB

[Image: a9255992-152-image-5de2fbc6.jpg]

went back and wired a 5volt to the pdb and flight controller, also soldered on an XT60 pigtail

[Image: a9255993-104-image-8038b737.jpg]

Here she is, just about done: 

[Image: a9255994-67-image-b8e2c0ce.jpg]

[Image: a9255996-5-image-056d6784.jpg]

[Image: a9255997-242-image-38717e98.jpg]

[Image: a9255998-215-image-00ca3223.jpg]

Of course I can never have a build without something going wrong. this is why you should always check your contacts with a multimeter. I fried my camera because I switched up the VTX wires with the camera wires. My cam takes only 3.3 to 5 volts while the VTX takes a 12volt-17volt. Brand new camera up in smoke. In addition, my radiolink R6D, tiny little receiver is not working properly. for some reason I can not get it to switch to ppm.

[Image: a9251661-94-zz.jpg]

I will try and get some flight vids up asap Smile


For the latest RC Reviews: http://www.youtube.com/danknee
[-] The following 2 users Like Danq0's post:
  • BigglesFPV, Oscar
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#8
Very nice build log, thumbs up!
ONly thing i would have changed is probably the camera Smile would that frame fit runcam swift?
Don't be a LOS'er, be an FPV'er :)  My Gear - Facebook - Instagram - Twitter
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#9
I'm not quite sure why they have placed the red X on the top plate (on top of the arms), but I feel it would make the frame stronger (and also be a better fit) by placing it on the underside of the arms. That way you would sandwich the arms between the carbon plate and the red X. Other than that, it looks good.
Reply
#10
(17-Aug-2016, 03:53 PM)JeremyE Wrote: I'm not quite sure why they have placed the red X on the top plate (on top of the arms), but I feel it would make the frame stronger (and also be a better fit) by placing it on the underside of the arms. That way you would sandwich the arms between the carbon plate and the red X. Other than that, it looks good.

I believe the red plate is on top of the arms as it it a quick release for removing the arms if you break one.
My youtube channel

Reply
#11
(16-Aug-2016, 10:54 PM)Oscar Wrote: Very nice build log, thumbs up!
ONly thing i would have changed is probably the camera Smile would that frame fit runcam swift?
Thanks oscar Smile 

its pretty tight fit, because that little shell on top is meant to hold a VTX and RX in addition to the camera, but my guess is: yea it could fit.   
(17-Aug-2016, 03:53 PM)JeremyE Wrote: I'm not quite sure why they have placed the red X on the top plate (on top of the arms), but I feel it would make the frame stronger (and also be a better fit) by placing it on the underside of the arms. That way you would sandwich the arms between the carbon plate and the red X. Other than that, it looks good.
I think they meant for it to go on top because the battery is meant for the bottom. they included this rubber mat in the kit so that the battery doesnt move around. having the x on the bottom there wouldn't be enough surface area for the mat to stick to. I was actually thinking about removing the X because there is barely any room between it and the PDB. I wanted to run a velcro strap between the gap, luckily I was able to force it though.


For the latest RC Reviews: http://www.youtube.com/danknee
Reply
#12
(17-Aug-2016, 09:43 PM)BigglesFPV Wrote: I believe the red plate is on top of the arms as it it a quick release for removing the arms if you break one.

The problem with that is it creates a 'weak' spot under the arms. You'll only have the pressure on the head of the screw/bolt on the underside.

I'd potentially shift the carbon plate underneath the arms and then use the red plate on top. That will at least 'sandwich' the arms, allow more space on the top side, allow use of the battery matt and still be 'quick release'.
Reply
#13
Videos
Unbox


Assembly Frame:


Assembly

Flight Tests


I think it will hold up fine, this thing has a bunch of screws to distribute the load to in the event of a crash.


For the latest RC Reviews: http://www.youtube.com/danknee
Reply
#14
Flight Test 2


For sure this is my favorite quadcopter. Now I know why everyone keeps saying good things about Xframes


For the latest RC Reviews: http://www.youtube.com/danknee
Reply
#15
Good job!  Looks like you overcame your fear of flying this quad just fine Smile

I couldn't help but notice your OSD has some issues (VBat and Amps - though mAh seems to work fine, odd).  What PDB is that and what have you tried?  Folks here (maybe not me) might be able to help you sort the issues.
Reply


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