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Fried Motor and ESC
#1
after switching to Betaflight 2.8 from Cleanflight on my Sparrow Racing Quad I decided to take it out for a late night spin in a nice parking garage that's well lit with about 25 foot high ceilings. the first pack flew just fine. so when I went to switch packs and the motors beeped up, for some reason one of my motors started smoking really bad, then went to my ESC. so I unplugged the one bad esc and motor, and the other 3 works just fine. i checked all the solder joints and connections and nothing shorted. the only thing I can think of is could it be because I changed my looptime from 1200 to 500? I'm running a SP Racing F3 Acro, DYS XM20 ESC, Tiger 2206-2000KV T-Motors.
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#2
it happened on the ground when the motors weren't spinning?
I doubt it to be the looptime. I think it could be the motor screws touching motor windings?

Did you feel the temperature of that motor that went smoking after the flight?
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#3
(07-Jun-2016, 12:12 PM)Oscar Wrote: it happened on the ground when the motors weren't spinning?
I doubt it to be the looptime. I think it could be the motor screws touching motor windings?

Did you feel the temperature of that motor that went smoking after the flight?

yes it happened on the ground when I switched battery packs. I don't it's the screws, cause I've been flying the same set up for weeks, I didn't change none of the hardware, just the firmware. left everything at default on Betaflight, except the looptime. I haven't had a chance to take the motor apart yet, but I'll do it today.
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#4
I think if your hardware can't handle the loop time you'd have desync problems. Faster loop times will let more noise into your gyro which could cause more heat while your flying. But it happened when changing out batteries... That should like a short.

Am I mistaken? But isn't the default 2khz for 2.8 anyway.

Either way its a bummer
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#5
(07-Jun-2016, 02:01 PM)Trollhammered Wrote: I think if your hardware can't handle the loop time you'd have desync problems. Faster loop times will let more noise into your gyro which could cause more heat while your flying. But it happened when changing out batteries... That should like a short.

Am I mistaken? But isn't the default 2khz for 2.8 anyway.

Either way its a bummer

no you are correct, the default is 2khz. I'm thinking maybe either some dabris got into the motor, or a random act of the quad gods. but either way I been wanting to try out some different esc's.
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#6
[Image: 7m1pkYql.jpg]
well I got a chance to open the motor up and the mounting screws weren't touching the stator. everything seems to be fine, so I really can't explain it. I must have did something to upset the quad gods.  Dodgy Angel
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#7
You see that one phase has melted insulation, right?
Since you've taken it apart, it should be pretty easy for you to rewind that specific phase and get the motor up and running.
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#8
(09-Jun-2016, 11:37 AM)Andrey Mironov Wrote: You see that one phase has melted insulation, right?
Since you've taken it apart, it should be pretty easy for you to rewind that specific phase and get the motor up and running.

how would I rewind it? what kind of wire do I use? and does it matter how much I wind it around?
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#9
(09-Jun-2016, 01:16 PM)JimmyLe813 Wrote: how would I rewind it? what kind of wire do I use? and does it matter how much I wind it around?

To me it looks like 30AWG, but you can always measure the actual gauge with calipers or some other tool.
You should wind the same number of turns and strand count as the original winding has. Carefully unwinding the failed phase will help you count the number of turns. There are nice tutorials on the internet:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1892195
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.ph...ng-a-DT750
Here you can get the proper wire for winding, or just find it in a local radio shack or similar:
http://www.gobrushless.com/shop/index.ph...=MW-30G-QP

Just check it really is 30AWG if you're going to rewind it.
Measuring from the low-res photo, the wire is in between of 30AWG and 32AWG, thus you should measure it yourself to make sure which gauge it is.
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