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First Venture into FPV with a HK Thorax and Outdated Electronics
#16
Colour screens are hopeless in bright sunlight (which is what we often fly in during the summer) and touch screens are just a gimmick.

As I'm getting on a bit, I need reading glasses for anything closer than a couple of metres. Even so, in bright sunlight I can read the plain black and white screens on my T8SG and Devo 10 without my glasses with no problem at all.

While the small forest of switches on the i10 looks impressive, they are not needed for a simple multi-rotor craft. The closed source firmware puts you at the mercy of HobbyKing's developers if you want fixes or new features. For the FrSky radios, OpenTX is great open source firmware and for the Devo/Jumper radios, the open source DeviationTX firmware is being constantly improved by a great group of developers.
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#17
Should I get a better FC? Funds aren't really a problem. I like the newish Matek CTR..
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#18
(04-Jan-2018, 05:58 AM)JukeJoint Wrote: Should I get a better FC? Funds aren't really a problem. I like the newish Matek CTR..

Wait until your next build.

Then you can get modern everything!

I've only ever updated one build and that was because the flight controller died. I tend to leave things as they are once something flies well.
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#19
Sounds good. I need to get up in the air..
I think I'll spring for the x9d plus. Get fpv has decent deals in them right now.
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#20
Put an order in. Radio, receiver, battery, some wires, few different sets of props, rgb led and a buzzer.
Got the right cleanflight configurator and communicated with the fc. I flashed it successfully and changes were saved so it's for that going for it.
Registered with the FAA.
There's two unattended airports within 5 miles of me. Both are private 'ports without towers. Davies, and also Smies airport. I'll need to contact the owners and figure all that out. Anyone have experience with airports if this nature? Airport links;
https://www.airnav.com/airport/2WI8
https://www.airnav.com/airport/75WI
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#21
Got everything yesterday. Radio works although it came without an SE case like it's supposed to. Jerks. Honestly don't care, but I paid for a product, ya know.

So now I'm set to mock up all my wiring and see what you guys and gals can find that may be wrong. 

Pretty excited to be near programming this bish. 

Without solder the auw is a 618g so I should get decent flight times with a 4s 1300mah, no? That's including batt and wiring.

Have a few prop shapes to try out now as well. Bought some 5x3.5 luminiers, 5x4 dal that look like poo so I won't use them, clean or repair your molds!, and racekrafts 5x4 triblades.
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#22
A 1300mA/h battery might be a bit on the small size if you use the more aggressive propellers.

My Armattan Hex uses 1806 2300kv motors with 4040 triblades and I use two different batteries on it. Either a 3S 1500mA/h which gives me about five minutes of fairly laid back cruising or a 4S 1400mA/h which gives about the same time at much faster speeds.



If you're going to put 5040 triblades and a 4S battery on this, I'd say you need to be looking more at 1800mA/h. You'll probably be pulling around 12A per motor on full power with those props and probably around half that just cruising.
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#23
I'd be happy with 3-5 minutes from the 3.5s. I'll be hovering and cruising, listing and drifting 99% of the time as I start out. I bought one battery for now so I could test it out and go from there. Not many people running 3.5s so I started low. Everything on this build is pretty light so I kept the theme going.
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#24
You can always buy different batteries in the future. Even a 2200mA/h 3S wouldn't be out of place considering how large the frame is.

It's a different story on the Armattan as space is at a premium and the 1400mA/h battery is the maximum length that I can fit onto the top plate.
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#25
The frame is more than adequate. However, I did want to find a battery I can slip between the upper main plate and top plate for a super clean look. There's a few @ HK that are very close. Haven't searched much but I'd like to find a longer hardcase 4s as well. The short bricks annoy me. It's a flying machine not a sailboat. I get that a lot of frames are made to house these shapes but I think it's better to keep a low profile, in my case anyway.
I've given some thought to how much capacity I can carry. Little batteries for zipping around and bigger ones to cruise around recording video. Would a larger 3s be the way to go?
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#26
(18-Jan-2018, 08:08 AM)JukeJoint Wrote: Would a larger 3s be the way to go?

Maybe not. As the battery gets heavier, you may find that you need to go up to 4S to keep enough performance.

You can play some of these 'what if' games using eCalc to model the weight of your machine and the thrust that your motors and props will generate for a given battery and voltage. The power to weight ratio must be at least 2:1 for stable flight.
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#27
Had some trouble with eCalc last time I used it. User error, no doubt. I'll give it another go soon. Taking pics of the components I'm using to help me "wire" them up on my PC right now.
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