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First Build - Armattan Chameleon
#16
Also, smaller diameter silicone wire transfers much less vibration to the FC
[-] The following 3 users Like RENOV8R's post:
  • Coltron5000, sloscotty, unseen
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#17
I noticed you don't have a PSU for your ISDT charger.
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#18
(18-May-2017, 07:05 PM)unseen Wrote: When it comes to wire, one of the best investments a new quad builder can make is to get a good selection of silicone insulated wires in various colours and thickness.

The best thing about silicone insulation is that it doesn't melt and shrink back as you solder the wire. You'll understand what I mean when you come to solder the ESC signal wires and grounds to the flight controller.

Definitely true, the Runcam wires were so much easier to work with. I will definitely need to grab some.

(19-May-2017, 09:19 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: I noticed you don't have a PSU for your ISDT charger.

Yet another thing overlooked. Thanks for the heads up!
--------------
My Fleet:
- Syma X5C-1
- JJRC JJ-1000
- Estes Proto X
- Holy Stone F181
- Syma X5SW-1
- Armattan Chameleon
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#19
Update time. I've got everything pretty much done besides the buzzer and receiver, both of which will be easy last steps as they'll be soldered to the top of the FC... once I get them. My XSR been sitting still in China for about 3 weeks now, hopefully it won't but much longer. I was able to get some 20 AWG silicone wire from my work and will be using that to power the LUX until I buy some smaller wire later on.

Here's what I've got now:



I think I did well for the most part, save for the ESC #2's signal and ground wires.  Whistling

Here it is, top plate and all:





You'll notice my camera is completely vulnerable. I will need to fix that later, for now I'm going to focus on getting it functional.


And now for the guts:


Camera secured to housing, attached to frame. FC power wires still to be switched.


FC Power wires swapped(only had red  Confused ), Camera wires soldered on:


Mounted VTX and antenna and pre-tinned wires:


VTX wires soldered on:


ESC signals/grounds soldered on:



Hopefully soon more parts will be coming in. I'm having a blast so far.  Smile

Sorry if some of these pictures look fuzzy, I tried to get as close as possible but I'm using a crappy phone camera so it can only be so good. I did use your suggested method of uploading via Google Photos however, Scotty. Thanks for the tip Thumbs Up
--------------
My Fleet:
- Syma X5C-1
- JJRC JJ-1000
- Estes Proto X
- Holy Stone F181
- Syma X5SW-1
- Armattan Chameleon
Reply
#20
(21-May-2017, 04:02 AM)Coltron5000 Wrote: Update time. I've got everything pretty much done besides the buzzer and receiver, both of which will be easy last steps as they'll be soldered to the top of the FC... once I get them. My XSR been sitting still in China for about 3 weeks now, hopefully it won't but much longer. I was able to get some 20 AWG silicone wire from my work and will be using that to power the LUX until I buy some smaller wire later on.

Here's what I've got now:



I think I did well for the most part, save for the ESC #2's signal and ground wires.  Whistling

Here it is, top plate and all:





You'll notice my camera is completely vulnerable. I will need to fix that later, for now I'm going to focus on getting it functional.


And now for the guts:


Camera secured to housing, attached to frame. FC power wires still to be switched.


FC Power wires swapped(only had red  Confused ), Camera wires soldered on:


Mounted VTX and antenna and pre-tinned wires:


VTX wires soldered on:


ESC signals/grounds soldered on:



Hopefully soon more parts will be coming in. I'm having a blast so far.  Smile

Sorry if some of these pictures look fuzzy, I tried to get as close as possible but I'm using a crappy phone camera so it can only be so good. I did use your suggested method of uploading via Google Photos however, Scotty. Thanks for the tip Thumbs Up

I saw that you put the foam on your top plate. My suggestion is to use 3M dual lock reclosable fastener instead. Both on the top plate and battery. If you crash hard, and you will, you need extra retention. If battery flies off, buzzer to locate your quad is useless.
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#21
(21-May-2017, 04:02 AM)Coltron5000 Wrote: Update time. I've got everything pretty much done besides the buzzer and receiver, both of which will be easy last steps as they'll be soldered to the top of the FC... once I get them. My XSR been sitting still in China for about 3 weeks now, hopefully it won't but much longer. I was able to get some 20 AWG silicone wire from my work and will be using that to power the LUX until I buy some smaller wire later on.

Here's what I've got now:

A couple of things spring to mind looking at your pictures...

The first one is that you will not be getting a proper connection for your VTX antenna the way you are mounting the pigtail. With the mounting lugs sideways like that, the centre pin will not be fully mated inside the connector and the inner barrels will not be pressed together like they should be.

If you remove the pigtail and just screw the antenna on properly, look at how much space is left between the bottom of the antenna plug and the mounting lugs. That will be much less than you can achieve with the way you have it mounted now.

If you look at my build thread, you'll see that I cut one of the lugs off so that I could place the lugs vertically. Unless you do that, you'll have a bad connection which will give you poor range and overheat your VTX.

I don't know how you are managing to get those huge blobs of solder on the end of some of your wires, but it's not good. Tinning a wire should just cover the wire with solder, and more importantly - a layer of flux. Those blobs won't help anything. There was also a connection to your PDB where I saw a long length of uninsulated wire where the insulation had shrunk back. If the board above presses that wire down onto something, fire could be the result!

I see that where you tinned the pads on the flight controller, there are spikes of solder sticking up afterwards. If the solder starts forming spikes and behaving more like hard whipped egg whites than liquid metal, it means that either you don't have a flux cored solder (which you must have), you kept the solder hot for so long that all the flux boiled away, or that your iron's temperature is too high and burns off all the flux almost instantly.

Good soldering is smooth and shiny. Bad soldering is rough and matt.
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