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First Build - Armattan Chameleon
#1
It's time!


After getting some proper tools and grinding a few weeks of research I've started to purchase a few components for my first 250 mini quad build, and I can already feel the impatience setting in.  Tongue

Here's a list of the parts I'm using:

Frame: Armattan Chameleon
PDB: Matek OSDHUB Eco XT60 X-Type PDB
Motors: EMAX Cooling 2205 2300kv
ESC's: RacerStar 30A BlHeli
FC: Lumenier Lux V2
Props: RAYCorp 5040 3-Blade (5x4x3) Props
Lipo: Infinity Graphene 4S 1500mah 70C
Lipo Charger: iSDT SC-608 Intelligent Balance 150W
Camera: RunCam Eagle 800TVL 16:9 FPV Camera
VTX: TBS Unify Pro 5G8 V2
Antenna: Aomway 5.8G 3DBi 4 Leaf Clover
Goggles: Flysight 40CH FPV Goggles
TX: FrSky Taranis X9D Plus 16CH 2.4ghz ACCST
Receiver: FrSky XSR 2.4GHz 16CH ACCST

I've received the frame, motors, and ESC's so far. Let the tracking numbers flow...

OSD and Voltage Regulator are not on the list as I wasn't sure how necessary each of these would be. I figured I might need a voltage regulator for such a simple PDB.
Any thoughts on the setup? Is anything missing? What would you change/etc..


**Huge shoutout to unseen for helping me get on the right track. Thanks a lot!

More updates and pictures to come!  Thumbs Up
--------------
My Fleet:
- Syma X5C-1
- JJRC JJ-1000
- Estes Proto X
- Holy Stone F181
- Syma X5SW-1
- Armattan Chameleon
[-] The following 3 users Like Coltron5000's post:
  • Tom BD Bad, unseen, kaitylynn
#2
There seem to be quite a few things that are described as a "Lumenier 4Power" PDB. Some have a spot to mount a Pololu regulator. As you have chosen the Unify Pro VTX, then unless you bought the HV version, you will need a 5V regulator that is capable of at least 1A to power the VTX.

The best kind of PDB for the Chameleon is one where you can solder the XT60 connector for the battery to the side of the PDB. This keeps the battery leads safely out of the way of the propellers.

Something like this: Matek PDB-XT60 would be perfect.

Although the Lux flight controller has its own 5V regulator built in, running everything off that one regulator is not a particularly good idea. It's also a real shame that you bought the Lux V1 as it has a few things that count against it. First, it's now a discontinued product. Secondly, it uses the 6500 IMU which is more noisy than the 6000 and often needs soft mounting to give acceptable performance. Finally, it doesn't have any onboard flash memory for black box logging or a microSD card socket. The new Lux V2 addresses both of these problems and has the 6000 IMU and a microSD card socket. I've just used one on a new build and it's very good indeed.

Some kind of OSD would be a good idea so that you can keep an eye on your battery voltage and land before it runs out and the craft drops from the sky!
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#3
Thanks for the quick reply- I was able to cancel the orders for the 4Power PDB and the Lux V1 and instead went with the Matek that you recommended, and got a Lux V2 from GetFPV. Also ordered an OSD from HobbyKing.

That's a good point, and another reason I'm glad I joined this site. I would have undoubtedly dropped my quad out of the sky or ruined a battery if I was oblivious to the voltage, and even if I knew where I was with it I'd still have to land every minute to check it. Research, research, research...
My tendency to rush things is already starting to prove unhealthy for this hobby, haha. Oh well, gotta make mistakes to learn from them.

Still have a long way to go as far as purchases(namely the Taranis and the goggles), but it feels good to finally be this close to the building process. Hopefully I'll receive some parts this week; more updates will follow.
--------------
My Fleet:
- Syma X5C-1
- JJRC JJ-1000
- Estes Proto X
- Holy Stone F181
- Syma X5SW-1
- Armattan Chameleon
[-] The following 2 users Like Coltron5000's post:
  • sloscotty, unseen
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#4
That's great that you could change your order to the Lux V2 instead, it's a much better choice.
The designers placed the various pads in sensible locations and it's not too hard to solder to if you're not that experienced. Which OSD did you buy?

Rushing things in this hobby will undoubtedly lead to pain. Smile

The Chameleon isn't a super tight or difficult build, but neither is there room for beginner friendly luxuries like connecting everything together with pin headers and plugs. Also, some connections that need to be made to the Lux are on the bottom of the PCB, so planning out where everything will go and what will connect to where before you start soldering will make things so much easier.

When I'm starting on a new build, I'll often spend days with a pile of parts and a frame trying different ways of putting it all together until I'm completely happy and have a clear plan of attack before I pick up the soldering iron. Having to start desoldering things when the build is nearly complete because you forgot something is no fun and connections are best soldered once than several times.

A couple of small items that you will also need come to mind: Loctite blue thread lock compound to stop the screws that hold your motors to your arms from vibrating loose. A 5V beeper (like this or this) to help you find your Chameleon in the long grass. The beeper is also useful as a way for the flight controller to 'talk' to you. For example, it will tell you clearly when the flight controller has finished initialising after you plug the battery in. It will also start beeping when your battery gets low which is useful if you are flying line of sight and can't see the battery low warning on your OSD.
[-] The following 3 users Like unseen's post:
  • kaitylynn, Coltron5000, sloscotty
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#5
Luckily I'll be able to get some loctite from my work.
Totally spaced the beeper though!  Confused
Going to order that next, along with the lipo and charger so I can really start wiring this baby up. So far I've gotten pretty much everything I need to get started in the mail, so today I unleashed my anxious hands and wired up my motors and ESCs to the PDB, which I actually changed at the last second to the Matek HUBOSD Eco so I could use the integrated OSD it comes with and make my build a bit cleaner.
Here's where I stopped: 



Now just to wait for more parts to come in and decide how to throw it all together. I'll definitely triple check everything before I start soldering to the LUX V2, that would be a painful mistake to make.
--------------
My Fleet:
- Syma X5C-1
- JJRC JJ-1000
- Estes Proto X
- Holy Stone F181
- Syma X5SW-1
- Armattan Chameleon
[-] The following 3 users Like Coltron5000's post:
  • hendrixhughes, sloscotty, unseen
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#6
Looking good!

The "throw it all together" bit worries me a little though. Wink
[-] The following 1 user Likes unseen's post:
  • Coltron5000
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#7
It does look good!  Looks so good I wanted to look more closely.  But uploading via imgur is what it is.

Just in case you are using Google Photos to store your photos, I've got a mini how-to in this post: http://intofpv.com/t-how-to-upload-pictu...08#pid2208 . Something similar should work for other photo sharing sites. (On the post following the one I linked, I mention that you can omit some of the steps - at least with Google Photos. I still do it that way though.)

This allows your photos to expand to larger size when someone clicks on them.  Don't sweat it if it's too much trouble though - just keep the build photos coming!
[-] The following 1 user Likes sloscotty's post:
  • Coltron5000
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#8
Looks good!! Really wishing I had used the Matek PDB on my build - the BFF3 with flying leads is not as neat as i'd like. Can't wait to see/hear your first impressions when she's in the air...
[-] The following 1 user Likes hendrixhughes's post:
  • Coltron5000
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#9
No need to worry, I will use caution. In fact, with how long it took me to wire my 5v power from my Matek to the LUX V2 today, I would assume I may even be using too much caution. (If such a thing exists in this hobby)  Rolleyes

Speaking of which:



Here's what it looks like now. I used some of the ESC power wire excess that I had trimmed off previously- will this gauge be okay to power the FC? I thought it seemed a bit thick but it's kinda right on the fence and I feel like it will do just fine as long as I have clean connections.



Took this one yesterday after a quick reassembly for a preview of what it will look like.

A name actually just popped in my head.. red on the motors, yellow props, orange on the frame, VTX antenna is blue... all colors of fire.
Thus, the "FireFly" is born.  Cool


Thanks for the feedback! As for the photos, I will have to try your method next time for some higher res pictures. Hopefully these aren't too hard to see.
Stay tuned!
--------------
My Fleet:
- Syma X5C-1
- JJRC JJ-1000
- Estes Proto X
- Holy Stone F181
- Syma X5SW-1
- Armattan Chameleon
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#10
Also, sorry for the variations in text sizes. I think the issue is stemming from me switching from the mobile site to the full version in the middle of typing a post.
--------------
My Fleet:
- Syma X5C-1
- JJRC JJ-1000
- Estes Proto X
- Holy Stone F181
- Syma X5SW-1
- Armattan Chameleon
Reply
#11
The flight controller uses very small amounts of power, so those wires are far thicker than they need to be. 26AWG would be plenty.
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#12
I thought that might be the case. Guess I'll just grab some 26 from work and swap them out when I get home. Just out of curiosity, what would be the problem with using thicker wire than is necessary? Would it have too much material to disperse electricity through and weaken the connection?
--------------
My Fleet:
- Syma X5C-1
- JJRC JJ-1000
- Estes Proto X
- Holy Stone F181
- Syma X5SW-1
- Armattan Chameleon
Reply
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#13
(18-May-2017, 02:06 PM)Coltron5000 Wrote: I thought that might be the case. Guess I'll just grab some 26 from work and swap them out when I get home. Just out of curiosity, what would be the problem with using thicker wire than is necessary? Would it have too much material to disperse electricity through and weaken the connection?

It only adds unnecessary weight - every gram counts.
[-] The following 2 users Like sloscotty's post:
  • Coltron5000, unseen
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#14
(18-May-2017, 02:06 PM)Coltron5000 Wrote: I thought that might be the case. Guess I'll just grab some 26 from work and swap them out when I get home. Just out of curiosity, what would be the problem with using thicker wire than is necessary? Would it have too much material to disperse electricity through and weaken the connection?

Nah, electricity doesn't work like that.

What Scotty said is right on the mark. Every extra gramme of weight is less flight time. Thick wires also take up more room and if space is at a premium, using wires that are too large for the purpose can make it hard to fit things in.
[-] The following 1 user Likes unseen's post:
  • Coltron5000
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#15
When it comes to wire, one of the best investments a new quad builder can make is to get a good selection of silicone insulated wires in various colours and thickness.

The best thing about silicone insulation is that it doesn't melt and shrink back as you solder the wire. You'll understand what I mean when you come to solder the ESC signal wires and grounds to the flight controller.
[-] The following 1 user Likes unseen's post:
  • sloscotty
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