02-Apr-2017, 07:44 PM
Heya everyone!
I've spent quite a while without "real" goggles - I don't count the Eachine VR D2 or what those headmount-screens are called in. Apart from getting me claustrophobically worried about my absent talent for fpv-flying in general, they taught me to take a closer look at goggles - that it wasn't such an evident subject.
Two days ago I was lucky enough to find a (barely!) used pair of Fatsharks - after ordering some Aomway goggles, that is
Nevermind. I'll have a fancy pair of spectator goggles, whichever they're going to be..
As I haven't experienced any other Fatshark models, I can't report about the screens themselves in comparison - all I can say is that it's heaven, compared to the eachines. Not a fair comparison, though..
One thing that immediately struck me, though, was the very "unphysiologic", hence uncomfortable headstrap, which was holding on merely by friction ("squeezing" the head rather than resting upon it and offering vertical support for the not really superlight goggles..),
and the position of the batteries has been designed by Dr. Evil. Or Mini-me. Or both.
However, I decided not to let that minor detail ruin my enthusiasm,
as the enormously improved visual quality immediately reflected in my flying skills. *oh my..
There's an easy way to tweak the headmount a little (20min, that's it..), and it's cheap. I browsed the forum and did not find the same solution - haven't searched for too long, I have to admit:
So that's just a replacement headstrap (5 bucks where I live), "sutured" onto the goggle's faceplate and connecting to the backhand part of the horizontal strap. You'll just need to take off the ventilator cover and drill 2 tiny holes (1-1.5 mm dia is enough) at the border of the surface usually covered by the ventilator plate. Take off the foam (no need to peel off the other stuff) and suture directly through it (make sure you have a sturdy needle, heavy-duty nylon or similar thread and one of those metal-fingercap-pushers at hand.)
The battery cable needs extension, but that should be no problem for a soldering community..
Don't suture through the front loop, but just tie it to the faceplate by using the insewn loop. Like that, you'll still be able to adapt its length. It's well worth the effort measuring the required length while wearing the googles, though.
To me it's a whole new comfort level. Have a good week, everyone!
I've spent quite a while without "real" goggles - I don't count the Eachine VR D2 or what those headmount-screens are called in. Apart from getting me claustrophobically worried about my absent talent for fpv-flying in general, they taught me to take a closer look at goggles - that it wasn't such an evident subject.
Two days ago I was lucky enough to find a (barely!) used pair of Fatsharks - after ordering some Aomway goggles, that is
Nevermind. I'll have a fancy pair of spectator goggles, whichever they're going to be..
As I haven't experienced any other Fatshark models, I can't report about the screens themselves in comparison - all I can say is that it's heaven, compared to the eachines. Not a fair comparison, though..
One thing that immediately struck me, though, was the very "unphysiologic", hence uncomfortable headstrap, which was holding on merely by friction ("squeezing" the head rather than resting upon it and offering vertical support for the not really superlight goggles..),
and the position of the batteries has been designed by Dr. Evil. Or Mini-me. Or both.
However, I decided not to let that minor detail ruin my enthusiasm,
as the enormously improved visual quality immediately reflected in my flying skills. *oh my..
There's an easy way to tweak the headmount a little (20min, that's it..), and it's cheap. I browsed the forum and did not find the same solution - haven't searched for too long, I have to admit:
So that's just a replacement headstrap (5 bucks where I live), "sutured" onto the goggle's faceplate and connecting to the backhand part of the horizontal strap. You'll just need to take off the ventilator cover and drill 2 tiny holes (1-1.5 mm dia is enough) at the border of the surface usually covered by the ventilator plate. Take off the foam (no need to peel off the other stuff) and suture directly through it (make sure you have a sturdy needle, heavy-duty nylon or similar thread and one of those metal-fingercap-pushers at hand.)
The battery cable needs extension, but that should be no problem for a soldering community..
Don't suture through the front loop, but just tie it to the faceplate by using the insewn loop. Like that, you'll still be able to adapt its length. It's well worth the effort measuring the required length while wearing the googles, though.
To me it's a whole new comfort level. Have a good week, everyone!