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F3 Flight Controller Acro 6 DOF/Deluxe 10 DOF for Multirotor Racing
#16
(25-May-2017, 05:38 PM)Drone0fPrey Wrote: Yes. I can confirm that.

Personally, once I was able to get my brushed SPRacingF3EVO FC's to communicate with my PC (w/ Zadig). It was easy to flash it with the latest firmware from the newer CF configurator (2.0.3). If you wanted to.

Yeah, but it works just fine with the old cleanflight. So it is communicating like it should. I just can't flash the new firmware.
For now I'm saved and I'll use the old version. At the same time I'll keep my eyes open to try some other things to fix it.
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#17
(25-May-2017, 05:38 PM)Drone0fPrey Wrote: Yes. I can confirm that.

Personally, once I was able to get my brushed SPRacingF3EVO FC's to communicate with my PC (w/ Zadig). It was easy to flash it with the latest firmware from the newer CF configurator (2.0.3). If you wanted to.

It bears pointing out that the older SP Racing F3 uses the CP2102 USB-UART bridge chip and requires neither Zadig or the ImmersionRC driver fixer.

This means that neither the DFU or VCP drivers should be used to attempt to flash or configure this flight controller.
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#18
(26-May-2017, 12:37 PM)unseen Wrote: It bears pointing out that the older SP Racing F3 uses the CP2102 USB-UART bridge chip and requires neither Zadig or the ImmersionRC driver fixer.

This means that neither the DFU or VCP drivers should be used to attempt to flash or configure this flight controller.

I did try to flash the new firmware first, but I might have messed it up somehow. Then I started looking into updating the drivers and such.
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#19
So, I finally get a second receiver to hook up to this board.

In my nighthawk I have the receiver connected through a port. I was wondering if that is possible for this one too.
I really don't know what I should be looking for on the board.
http://seriouslypro.com/files/SPRacingF3...latest.pdf
Receiver: https://www.banggood.com/Frsky-XM-Micro-...10020.html
I have some cable's lying around left and right, that I'm hoping would allow me to connect the receiver through a port on the FC in stead of having to solder it on directly.
My soldering skills are lacking.

Lazie
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#20
Watch this video. The later part of it (starting at 12:29) shows how you should connect an SBUS receiver like your XM to the flight controller.



No soldering required!
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#21
(05-Jun-2017, 10:07 PM)unseen Wrote: Watch this video. The later part of it (starting at 12:29) shows how you should connect an SBUS receiver like your XM to the flight controller.



No soldering required!

You don't know how much I love you right now! Saved me a lot of messing around with that. I connected everything and NOTHING BLEW UP!!! So awesome.
One little question. Is this normal? https://gyazo.com/17884e7e17bdc0a7cb3e78a8f456936a
When I arm my nighthawk the motors keep spinning. When I tested the motors in cleanflight (old version) they were also all spinning nicely together.
Do I need to do the ESC thing where you put full throttle and connect battery or is it a cable not connecting properly? I see a lot of stuff on the internet, but for all I know this is normal.. :/

Thanks for all the help so far!

Edit: I just checked my battery. I probably killed the battery. Not sure if that could be the issue. Battery is at about 6V it's a 3 cell. Charger is giving me an error.
Hope I can sing it back to life.

Edit2: My singing didn't help. I did connect a 3S and 4S that I didn't kill yet and the motors are continuously spinning now. Not convinced yet, but I intend to glue down, heat shrink and put together the quad first before I try anything else.
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#22
Two things:

1. You must calibrate the ESCs.

2. If you arm the quad without propellers, all you will do is confuse yourself. When you arm and increase the throttle, the flight controller assumes you are flying. Without propellers, the flight controller does not see any feedback from the corrections it is now trying to make. Chaos ensues.

The only thing you should use to test that your motors are correctly connected and that they spin in the correct direction is the Motors tab. If that checks out and the 3d model of the quad in the configurator mirrors the movements of the real quad if you pick it up and tilt the nose up and down, tilt to the left and the right and rotate around the centre clockwise and counterclockwise, then it's time to put propellers on, go outside, and take your maiden flight.
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#23
(06-Jun-2017, 07:13 PM)laziegoblin Wrote: Edit: I just checked my battery. I probably killed the battery. Not sure if that could be the issue. Battery is at about 6V it's a 3 cell. Charger is giving me an error.
Hope I can sing it back to life.

Edit2: My singing didn't help. I did connect a 3S and 4S that I didn't kill yet and the motors are continuously spinning now. Not convinced yet, but I intend to glue down, heat shrink and put together the quad first before I try anything else.

Try this at your own risk: If your charger has a Pb (lead) type battery mode, you can try to use this to put a bit of charge back into the lipo until voltage is high enough that it doesn't give an error anymore in lipo mode.   Whistling
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#24
(06-Jun-2017, 10:42 PM)fftunes Wrote: Try this at your own risk: If your charger has a Pb (lead) type battery mode, you can try to use this to put a bit of charge back into the lipo until voltage is high enough that it doesn't give an error anymore in lipo mode.   Whistling

Jup, you practically sang it back to life!! Thanks
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#25
(06-Jun-2017, 08:58 PM)unseen Wrote: Two things:

1. You must calibrate the ESCs.

2. If you arm the quad without propellers, all you will do is confuse yourself. When you arm and increase the throttle, the flight controller assumes you are flying. Without propellers, the flight controller does not see any feedback from the corrections it is now trying to make. Chaos ensues.

The only thing you should use to test that your motors are correctly connected and that they spin in the correct direction is the Motors tab. If that checks out and the 3d model of the quad in the configurator mirrors the movements of the real quad if you pick it up and tilt the nose up and down, tilt to the left and the right and rotate around the centre clockwise and counterclockwise, then it's time to put propellers on, go outside, and take your maiden flight.
I've had my first little flight. All looks good. It was really slow on yaw/roll and pitch. So I've opened the PID settings of my other quad in cleanflight to compare them.

I changed the main settings to the first quad I flew, but there are a lot of other settings I can't find info/explanations for.

These are the PIDs on the nighthawk I crashed. [Image: 4663aa239300d7e99657d8368d21f477.png]

https://gyazo.com/4663aa239300d7e99657d8368d21f477

These are the one's on the new one I'm flying. I did change the main values already. For example, the rates were all set to 0 on my new quad. I kept ROLL and PITCH on the same value, because I thought the frame was different, but on further inspection it seems the front props are further apart on both than the props are apart back to front.
[Image: 78dd0429b411a7f9cc667a9505c3d4d4.png]

https://gyazo.com/78dd0429b411a7f9cc667a9505c3d4d4

So, it seems the barometer & sonar/altitude settings have the biggest difference. Sadly I didn't open the tab with "show all PIDs" after I changed some stuff, so I don't know if those values are as a result of me changing things or not. I'm showing this because I understand about 10% of the whole PID tuning.

My quad was also wobbling a little when turned to angle mod, but flew perfect in acro. I believe I read somewhere on this forum that could be because of high P. Honestly, I didn't lower the P on my new quad all that much so I'll have to test that a little more.

I have to say, this quad is about 90% less noizy and the power seems to be x2. I was scared of the nighthawk. This thing terrifies me. It'll probably crash and die twice as fast Big Grin
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#26
So, I tested it with the above settings. Now it was wobbling in acro mode. The pitch and roll seemed more responsive this time. I'll try and lower my P next, see what it does.

Edit: I'm kinda just following this now https://github.com/betaflight/betaflight...ning-Guide

Edit2: These settings made it pitch forward and backwards really heavily. Had to land straight away.
https://gyazo.com/b63d93d30473f8ed735fbac3ef37de0e

Edit3: These settings got me back to less of a wobble. Still feels very unstable. https://gyazo.com/e2f2988a121e5ba85134c760e07b1d71
Not sure what to change and what would make a difference. Should I lower the rates?

Edit4: just watched this: So put my P 5 above my I and I'm going back out to see if it is more stable.

Edit5: Less wobble again. Giving a little punch did not make it wobble, but it did pitch backwards 20° on it's own. There is some decent wind in my backyard. Not sure if I should ignore it for now and just increase the P or also increase I a little at the same time.

Edit6: With these settings the wobble got worse again. https://gyazo.com/f06196da623de26ca525ae9a6e9051fb
I reset the PID's to the default again. And that was this: https://gyazo.com/c523ba16e44e0aebc9059dd1aca49ff4
It didn't seem to have changed the rates back to zero though. Let's hope this doesn't go crazy.

Edit7: it seems back to normal. Did not try angle mode yet, because my yard is not satisfactory big to test too much. It seems to get yaw input really fast, but I'm also a bad pilot so when I move throttle I tend to yaw on accident a lot. It did shake a little at the end, but I'm guessing it might have been fighting the wind on that part. It recovered and looked smooth again. Will have to go out to the park and test it a little more there.

Edit8: with the default PID's and the rates on 0,75 the quad does move more agile. Problem still remains. On Angle mode it wobble's and on acro it is almost solid. LOS I still see a little wobble when I fly close enough. (0,5m) This might be noticable more in FPV, but I don't dare to go FPV yet. Full throttle is rock solid, when I pull throttle back to 0 and let it drop it loses its orientation and pitches backwards and keeps pitching if I don't correct for it. Most of the time I throttle a little because it's getting close to the ground and than it is back to flying pretty solid.

I found a suggestion of turning air mode on so the PID loop is active, but I do not see air mode in cleanflight. Only the others.. Horizon, angle,..
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#27
https://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=ehyXLsvaEhw. This video is very helpful... Give it a shot and see if it hekps
carl.vegas
Current Quads: Operational: Diatone GT2 200 In need of repair: Bumble Bee, tehStein,  Slightly modified Vortex 250 
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#28
(08-Jun-2017, 11:30 PM)Carl.Vegas Wrote: https://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=ehyXLsvaEhw. This video is very helpful... Give it a shot and see if it hekps
That link goes to the overview page of youtube.
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#29
(09-Jun-2017, 11:39 AM)laziegoblin Wrote: That link goes to the overview page of youtube.
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#30
strange, I don't know why the link didn't work... maybe cause I did it on a mobile device  Huh
carl.vegas
Current Quads: Operational: Diatone GT2 200 In need of repair: Bumble Bee, tehStein,  Slightly modified Vortex 250 
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