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Experimental Armattan Rooster
#1
I was excited to finally get my Rooster.  Originally, this was going to be a typical build with stable firmware.  But I decided to experiment with this one.  I wanted to put all the stuff that has not been fully tested on the quad.

- F.Port for control and for telemetry on one wire.
- OSD camera control to work (not the same as VTX control)
- ESC telemetry  (Not how sure how useful this is.  It only gives you temperature and highest motor RPM.)
- Turtle Mode (I know it is not new).  This is my first quad that I did this with.  Makes sense considering this has top mounted lipos.
- 32K gyro/32K looptime. Overclocked CPU.  Running experimental BIQUAD/FIR2 filter.

Frame: Armattan Rooster 5 inch

FC: Matek F405 AIO.  Ignore the photos, I wanted to use JB F4 originally.  But his FC doesn't have a gyro that support 32K gyro.  The Matek is fairly well layout, even though I think CL Racing and JB are better.  Wiring got a little messy because I am doing pretty much running everything.  One less wire because no more SBUS wire.

Motors: Hypetrain 2306 2450Kv

ESC: Lumeniers 36A BLHeli 32

Camera: Runcam Eagle 2 Pro Lumeniers Edition

VTX: Matek VTX with IRCTramp control  (Changed from Lumeniers, but virtually the same)

RX: XSR (I wanted to used R-XSR, but it doesn't support F.Port)

Antenna: TBS

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The RX wiring is just soldered on for testing.  I shorten and cleaned up the wiring for the final.  Only the black wire where I hacked the non-inverted signal, 5V and ground were connected to the FC.  No SBUS.

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I soldered the XT60 straight to the FC.  I redid that and I placed a short wire before it connects to the FC.
I also realized at this point when I was testing the motors, my FC was mounted the wrong way.  I had to desolder most of it to reorient the FC.

Here it is all corrected.

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What a wiring mess?  I wish they have a RX pad at every corner for ESC telemetry.
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The quad is quite heavy, but feels solid.  AUW is 573g without GoPro.  Build weigh was 394 gm.  Some people were having issue with the arms moving.  It is due to the low profile hex screw.  There was too much slop in the hex and people couldn't tighten the screw enough.  It was addressed in video below.  I did not have the same problem, but will request new screws because I semi-strap some of the hex.



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Final Thougts:

I have not flown it yet.  Too wet out right now outside.  Tested without props, and everything seem to be good with the 32K and new filter.  I would also like to see how it flies with the Kalman filter 32K/16k and just 8K/8K on a stable build.  I will eventually report back.

Camera control was a pain to setup.  I am working on a tutorial with some of my troubleshooting.  Hopefully it will help some of you who eventually want to implement this feature.

The new filter was also difficult to figure out how to activated it.  I had to read the code changes to realized how to get the filter activated.  I was planning to write up a tutorial for this too.

Overall, it was a fun build.
[-] The following 8 users Like voodoo614's post:
  • Drone0fPrey, Oscar, E.L.K., sirdude, unseen, Tom BD Bad, sloscotty, RENOV8R
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#2
So I take it the duck is one of the things that hasn't been fully tested...Big Grin
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#3
Duck on a rooster. BFF!
[-] The following 1 user Likes voodoo614's post:
  • Oscar
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#4
wow that is a lot of wires. Beautiful frame though.
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#5
Nicely done Voodoo...will be interested to hear how it flies!
"Damn the torpedoes!!!  Full speed ahead!!!"
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#6
First rain free day. Took the experiment out for a test flight. I couldn't even hoover. It was oscillating like crazy. I have to double check everything again. I probably have go back to a stable build and make sure it flies then move to the new filter.
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#7
Quad was not oscillating. It was just flipping out. Went to a firmware without new filter and the same thing happened. I finally figured it out. The board orientation was off. I swear it was correct when I checked it in BFCF. The arrow on the FC is pointing forward and all correction was at 0. But the FC was not moving the wrong way. For some reason, I have to change it to yaw 270 or -90 to correct the orientation. I shouldn't have to make this change. Did a quick good search, and Oscar wrote sometime about it. He mentioned that you might have to flash with full chip erase to reset this. I am not sure why the FC is doing this. A bit of warning for those who plan to use this FC. Don't rely on the arrow that is print on the board.

If my better half allows me to go fly, I will try and test flight with stable firmware first.
[-] The following 3 users Like voodoo614's post:
  • unseen, Tom BD Bad, sloscotty
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#8
Nice build Voodoo!

I just managed to beat you on the dry weight by 11g. Smile Like you, I didn't have a problem with the flat head bolts and my arms are nice and tight with no slop.

Looking at your forest of ESC telemetry wires, I'm very glad I went for the Matek flight controller on my build.
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#9
Almost impossible to clean up all those ESCs telemetry wire. I thought about running them altogether under the FC and just running a single wire up.

I was about the comments on your weight. Good job. I was thinking where yours differ from mine. I think motors and ESCs. My ESC wires are massive. Just motors saves you 3g.

I also have R-XSR, but wanted to run F. Port. So I ended using XSR.
[-] The following 1 user Likes voodoo614's post:
  • unseen
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#10
Take two. I was able to get the bird in the air today. Use 3.3 pre Kalman and BIQUAD-FIR2. My setup on stock PID was amazingly free of oscillations. My friend has F40 and JB on his rooster. His has a lot of oscillations on stock PIDs.

The punch with the Hypetrain motors is no joke. I believe in all the hype.

Having camera control allowed me to fly today. It was pass sunset and dark to the naked eye. Went into camera settings and I can see again.

I was only able to get 1.5 packs, but I can't wait to fly again. Haven't been excited about a build in a long time. I will fly a few more packs and then test Kalman filter with 32/16k. Which is what is recommended instead of 32/32k.
[-] The following 4 users Like voodoo614's post:
  • McDee, Tom BD Bad, Logan629, unseen
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#11
Took the Rooster head on into a goalie cross bar. Broke three props. Not even a dent in the titanium cage. 

Right after crash
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Cleaned off the paint transfer. Good as new. 
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I also flew the Kalman filter on the recommended settings. Slight PID tuning. Result was little to no propwash.  Going to fly a few more packs and I try the BIQUAD-FIR2 next.
[-] The following 2 users Like voodoo614's post:
  • unseen, Logan629
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#12
Wow, that is confidence inspiring. Glad to hear it held up so well. I am anxious to get mine in the air.
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#13
Yes the duck is completely untested! hahaha
Nice review Voodoo. Sold me on their durability Wink
The Obsession IS Real!
My Youtube and Instagram links
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#14
Took it out today again. 4-5 packs. I started to get some serious twitch. I am thinking of putting a cap on then try again. Or you think it is better to try BIQUAD-FIR2 before cap?
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#15
(05-Feb-2018, 03:45 AM)voodoo614 Wrote: Took it out today again. 4-5 packs. I started to get some serious twitch. I am thinking of putting a cap on then try again. Or you think it is better to try BIQUAD-FIR2 before cap?

I doubt if different filtering is going to get rid of twitching problems, so I'd say go for the cap.

Nice to see that the Rooster is as durable as expected!
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