Hello guest, if you read this it means you are not registered. Click here to register in a few simple steps, you will enjoy all features of our Forum.
This forum uses cookies
This forum makes use of cookies to store your login information if you are registered, and your last visit if you are not. Cookies are small text documents stored on your computer; the cookies set by this forum can only be used on this website and pose no security risk. Cookies on this forum also track the specific topics you have read and when you last read them. Please confirm whether you accept or reject these cookies being set.

A cookie will be stored in your browser regardless of choice to prevent you being asked this question again. You will be able to change your cookie settings at any time using the link in the footer.

Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Dys 18A 4 in 1 esc
#16
I have a and I’m trying to get the above esc stack wired to it..I have all the cables but I’m not totally sure on the power..the esc’s seem straightforward..the current and power imunsure of?
I can post pic of my board if it Helps?
Thanks
Reply
Login to remove this ad | Register Here
#17
On this esc,,where vbat and current is,,,vbat should be full battery?and current is?not sure where to connect to fc?trying to attach pic but it’s saying too big
Reply
#18
Yes vbat is lipo + .current is a signal wire coming form the current sensor and goes to fc current pad.
[-] The following 1 user Likes lorentz's post:
  • x91qLt7
Reply
#19
ok here is how i wired it//motor 1 2 3 4 to same as on f4 nano..
then on esc where power is..i put 5v to current and on battery positive i plugged to vbat and then ground..now no leds light up on fc?
no bootup in betaflight and board gets hot?


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
       
Reply
#20
To current on fc you put 5v?? The current wire that goes to fc is a signal(maybe 3v max ) ,not a power wire. I have no experience on your fc but i think that it is powered via vbat pad if is a direct lipo powered fc.
Reply
#21
(14-Dec-2017, 09:19 AM)jimbo_wa Wrote: That's why I'm keeping an eye on it - need someone to get it and work it out! Smile

Thumbs Uphttp://intofpv.com/t-fvt-cloudphoenix-12...2-3-4s-esc
[-] The following 1 user Likes lorentz's post:
  • jimbo_wa
Reply
#22
What is the current sensor scale factor starting value for the DYS F18 A ESC?
Reply
#23
Guys, I have a couple of questions regarding this ESC, but also its 'partner' FC from DYS (the mini F4)...

I am always amazed at the pitiful state of documentation that comes with (if you're lucky) products in this product space - amount of typos, unintelligible verbiage, missing or outright wrong information, differences between pre- and post-production hardware/software versions that aren't documented at all (at least until end-users who notice the discrepancies spend time digging to get to the bottom of things), etc., etc. It really is unreal. Just the tiniest amount of proof-reading/editing would win any one of these companies gobs more rapport with the English-speaking customers these products often end up in the hands of!

To that point - I placed separate orders on Amazon for the DYS mini F4 FC and the 4-in-1 18A ESC (model F18A), and, having looked over the manuals, am having trouble finding out several incredibly basic and key pieces of information about these products. Namely,

1) Does the FC in fact have an 8MB flash memory for blackbox logging or not? Was this in some (undocumented) versions of the product, and which one the user receives when ordering will be a crap-shoot, as to how long it was sitting on the shelf of the supplier before being ordered/shipped? I.e., are there some serials that have the 8MB flash, and others that do not?

2) Which "5V" pins on the FC and ESC are outputs, and which ones are inputs? You would never want to tie two separate voltage supplies together, even if they are supplying the 'same' voltage, precisely because, depending on the currently handling capability of each supply and the precision (or lack thereof) of each supply, you could smoke one or both of them (the BECs). The diagram in the manual has "5V" labels everywhere - on the 4-pin connector labeled BAT+/GND/CURT/5V, and on three of the through-hole vias on the board. Are some of these inputs and others outputs?

3) The 4-pin connectors on both the FC and ESC which are labeled 5V, GND, BAT+, and CURT - if you connect one to the other, are you typing the 5V BEC on the FC to the 5V BEC on the FC? Or, is that 5V coming from the ESC's BEC? From the FC's BEC? Which is it? I'm assuming since these (the ESC and FC) were made for each other, you wouldn't be tying two BEC outputs together, but I've been wrong before.

4) Is the "3V3" pin on the FC a 3.3V output? It is mentioned nowhere in the version of the manual I found online (Banggood, to be exact, because I cannot locate the manual on DYS's website: https://files.banggood.com/2016/12/M...0mini%20FC.pdf)

5) From the FC manual mentioned above found at Banggood: "Please solder the battery power cable with esc power cable, do not connect with battery". Does this mean if you're using the DYS ESC and FC together, connect the battery to the ESC and not to the FC?

6) Another line from the FC manual found at Banggood: "Flight control and 4-in-1 esc of 5V(2A) are used independently, just need the esc connects with battery" (holy...??). What on earth does this mean? Can I use the ESC's 5V BEC to power the FC? And, if so, is the ESC's 5V output powering the FC through the 5V/GND/VBAT/CRNT 4-pin connector? If that's the case, what are the other "5V" pins on the FC? Are they outputs of the FC's 5V BEC?

7) From the FC manual at BG: "SUBS: Connect with subs receiver, Usart6 rx, Smart Audio(Usart6 tx): serial port for Usart6, wiring for Smart Audio of VTX(OSD adjust VTX)" (Yes, that is a direct copy-and-paste from the 'manual'). Can someone interpret any of this? Does it mean that the SBUS pin is part of UART6? The diagram in the manual makes it look like RX6 and TX6 are a separate UART from the SBUS pin, and that the SBUS is actually on UART1, but the verbiage says something different. ???

8) Does the "BAT+" pin on the 4-pin connector tie to the BAT+ pad on the FC's battery input? Or, is it completely separate?

I'd appreciate some assistance from anyone who knows. This is unreal, the level of documentation that seems like it is accepted by this community and counts as legitimate documentation from the manufacturers themselves.

FC image from manual:

[Image: ny1PKNb.jpg]

ESC image from manual:

[Image: 1RExmle.jpg]
Reply
#24
The best thing you can do for yourself is watch Joshua Bardwell videos on how to wire a FC. There are honestly many ways to do it. This FC and ESC are designed to work together with minimum wiring and also work with other brands FC and ESC. Therefore it can be very difficult to comprehend why there are so many 5v and lipo pads everywhere. I will do my best to answer your questions, but you will probably not understand all the answers.

1. Most of these FC have built in Blackbox flash memory if they don't have a SD card slot. Although I am not 100 % sure with is FC.

2. All the 5V are on the same rail. They can be input or output depending on how you wire the lipo pigtail. If you wire to FC first, then all 5V are output on FC. There is no reason for you to connect 5v from FC to ESC. But any one of those 5v can be an input, which makes the rest an outputs. With the stack you have, you don't want to wire lipo to FC first anyway.
So you want to wire lipo to ESC first. Run the four wire port from ESC to FC. The 5v will power the FC. The other 5v on the FC will be output.

3. I answered in #2

4. 3.3V are output

5. Also answered in #2. Connect lipo to ESC first. Run 4 wires. But don't connect lipo to FC too.

6. See answer above

7. Just look at the diagram. All the answer you need. SBUS is UART1.

8. BAT+ is lipo voltage
Reply
#25
I use it on a 3 inch and no issues so far
Reply
#26
voodoo - thanks for stepping through that post and answering those questions in the manner you did; that was A. LOT. of reading.  Thank you very much.  Really appreciate it.

Okay - so where is ANY of that documented explicitly?  That's part of what I'm referring to by the state of the documentation that comes with these things.  A lot of my original post there was actually about the 100% crap documentation.  I'm thankful for the diagrams that they at least include, but geez - the verbiage simply serves to occlude details that could be - perhaps - ascertained from the diagrams.  An end-user should scarcely have to 'ascertain' things from a diagram to be able to get information on how a product works!

If that is indeed true about the 5V being output OR input, depending on whether or not the FC is wired to the ESC and thus using the ESC's 5V BEC, then that's really great...but where is it documented?

As for question 7, about the SBUS and UART pins, I still don't know why Smart Audio is even mentioned in the sentence, unless you can only use that one UART (UART1) as a Smart Audio output.  And why on earth are they bringing up UART6 in the line about the SBUS pin?

The BAT+ pin on the 4-pin connector must then only be a signal wire (which of course the wire gauge indicates, but again, why the sparse documentation on EXACTLY what the function and purpose is of each pin/feature?).

I get everything you're saying, but if there's one thing that 6 years at a university, 3 electrical engineering degrees, and well over a decade of actual integrated circuit design have taught me, it's that unless it is plainly documented, don't assume!  I guess not being a hobbyist, but primarily being a designer in a top-tier engineering company has driven deep into me the understanding that good documentation makes or breaks this stuff (I'd say it's 80% of the job, honestly!).  As I've gotten farther into the hobby, I am absolutely amazed at how utterly poor the documentation is, in general!
Reply
#27
Welcome to the world of well documented instruction. I hope you know I am just joking. Unfortunately if you are looking for great instructions, you are in the wrong hobby. Only the Joshua Bardwell FC comes with any descent instructions.

Once you wire enough of these FC, all you really need is the diagram. Believe or not, getting a diagram is a lot.

Let me explain the 5v rail. If you have voltage rail with 10 pins, which ones are the inputs and which ones outputs. Let say you put 5 volt on pin #1. Now what pins are inputs and which ones outputs? Well, pin #1 is the input and the #2-10 are the output. Now let's say you have a second rail. Let say you connect the output of rail #1 to pin #5 on rail #2. Rail #2 pin #5 is the input and the rest are outputs. And you would not want to use a separate power source on rail #2, now that it is electrify. The same goes for your 4in1 ESC and FC. Both have 5V BEC. As long as you only power one of them and not both, the 4 wires port will supply 5v to both rails.

Again, watch JB videos and you will understand SBUS and S. PORT better.

Bat+ on 4 wires port is only for voltage sense. That is why you wire lipo to 4in1 ESC and not FC.

I know you are treading carefully, but you ready need to watch some tutorial videos. If you diagram how you want to connect things, one of us will check to make sure you are correct. Make yourself a smoke stopper.
Reply
#28
I understand the concept of them all being the same 5V net, but there has got to be some intelligence in the circuit for the FC to detect that its 5V net is being supplied by another circuit and shut its own 5V supply down (so, as you rightly pointed out, you don't have two supplies fighting each other, and eventually burning), whether it is as simple as some kind of simple diode-emulating circuit, a smart-controlled switch, etc etc. Without something like that, you have smoke, and that's what I'm trying to avoid. But yeah, I get that they are all in the same 5V net.

I have all the raw materials now, so I will give it a try and report back! Thanks so much for the help, man.

"Smoke stopper" is just an over-current detector/limiter of some kind, I'm guessing?

(08-Jun-2018, 08:51 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: Welcome to the world of well documented instruction. I hope you know I am just joking. Unfortunately if you are looking for great instructions, you are in the wrong hobby. Only the Joshua Bardwell FC comes with any descent instructions.

Once you wire enough of these FC, all you really need is the diagram. Believe or not, getting a diagram is a lot.

Let me explain the 5v rail. If you have voltage rail with 10 pins, which ones are the inputs and which ones outputs. Let say you put 5 volt on pin #1. Now what pins are inputs and which ones outputs? Well, pin #1 is the input and the #2-10 are the output. Now let's say you have a second rail. Let say you connect the output of rail #1 to pin #5 on rail #2. Rail #2 pin #5 is the input and the rest are outputs. And you would not want to use a separate power source on rail #2, now that it is electrify. The same goes for your 4in1 ESC and FC. Both have 5V BEC. As long as you only power one of them and not both, the 4 wires port will supply 5v to both rails.

Again, watch JB videos and you will understand SBUS and S. PORT better.

Bat+ on 4 wires port is only for voltage sense. That is why you wire lipo to 4in1 ESC and not FC.

I know you are treading carefully, but you ready need to watch some tutorial videos. If you diagram how you want to connect things, one of us will check to make sure you are correct. Make yourself a smoke stopper.
Reply
#29
Whoa, hold on here...I got the actual thing in my hands today (actual FC and it's included printed manual), and there are some facts which contradict our conclusions here...

The manual that came printed on paper with the FC says that the 5V BEC's on the ESC and the FC are independent, and the double ended 4-pin connector cable that is meant to tie the ESC and FC together doesn't have the 5V wire; it is a 4-pin connector on either end, with only the wires for the BAT+, GND, and CURT (current sense line).

I looked up pictures of the entire stack online and any photo showing the 4-pin connector and cable tying the two together, there are only those same three wires.

So, it must be the case that the entire FC is being powered from the tiny little wire carrying the battery voltage from the ESC to the FC. It can't be simply a voltage sense for the battery. AND, additionally, the 5V 2A supplies on the FC and BEC remain independent; the FC's BEC is being run off of the Bat+ line from the FC.

Wrong?

If not.... Again, this is unreal, the level of confusion, even amongst experienced folks (not saying it's their fault, that's just how bad the docs are).
Reply
#30
You are probably right. Best way is to apply voltage to ESC and measure to see if you get any voltage from both 5v port.

At least it is not as crazy as when DYS mislabeled they UART3 TX and RX for three FC versions in a row.
Reply


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Solved Cannot connect ESC derange 2 80 22-Mar-2024, 10:05 PM
Last Post: derange
  Solved Cannot recognise 1 Esc at 4in 1 Esc Mad35 11 169 12-Mar-2024, 01:47 PM
Last Post: Pathfinder075
  Help ESC working but motor not spinning Prashant1901 1 106 10-Mar-2024, 02:09 AM
Last Post: Pathfinder075
  esc-configurator.com Krohsis 9 265 16-Feb-2024, 06:32 PM
Last Post: MomoBrut
  Motor or ESC ? Flybyjim 4 152 13-Feb-2024, 12:31 AM
Last Post: Flybyjim


Login to remove this ad | Register Here