I am once again asking for your assistance...

Crashed my Cinebot30 and was upside down afterward. Flipped my turtle mode switch, armed, pushed the right stick to flip and nothing. The quad was far away so I couldn't hear anything happening. Tried flipping a few times and eventually gave up and took the walk of shame.

When I arrived at the quad I flipped it and tried arming and taking off but the motors were just doing this weird spin-stop-spin-stop and sounded pretty cunchy. I disarmed and the motors' coiling were black in like 50% of it I'd say. I could smell electrical sizzle and the motors were QUITE hot. Only one motor was spinning correctly when armed. I'm chalking all the motors up as toast. 

How can I check the AIO to be sure I didnt fry that as well?

there are still two motors with clean windings?
switch these or any other working motor you have around to the esc where the motors did burnout. (any - a motor which can handle that voltage on the particular esc settings)
first move te bell by hand, if it feels braking, thats a sign for a bad esc - proceed by betaflight configurator motor tab and spin the motors gently.

(23-Jun-2023, 02:04 PM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: there are still two motors with clean windings?
switch these or any other working motor you have around to the esc where the motors did burnout. (any - a motor which can handle that voltage on the particular esc settings)
first move te bell by hand, if it feels braking, thats a sign for a bad esc - proceed by betaflight configurator motor tab and spin the motors gently.

The windings aren't "clean" and all look burnt but there's two that spin freely diagonally across from one another compared to the other two diagonally twitching. When spinning by hand there's only one that feels normal. 

I connected to Betaflight, then went to motors tab, connected a battery and they wont spin. I get a beeping from the ESC - just a consistent 2 beeps per second...ish.

Just following up for anyone interested in the mistake I made on this lol...

I couldn't find anything wrong with the AIO FC while troubleshooting this and figured it would be worth buying new motors and seeing if that solved my issue.

Okay so when I ordered the Cinebot30 I thought I ordered the 6s version. I went to re-buy the motors I had on it, except I've realized that I had the 4s motors (1804 3450kv), all the while I thought I was on the 6s motors (2450kv). It's not a surprise I eventually burnt these bad boys to oblivion since the AIO has no problem with 6s but obviously the motors couldn't handle the extra juice... for long. I probably had a total of 3-4 hours total in air flight time so not too shabby all things considered.

Incredibly embarrassing lesson learned. I even went back to my order history and sure enough, I clicked the wrong version... So, don't click too fast when checking out!

Yup, that’ll do it. Thanks for sharing the lesson.

If you accidentally order higher kv motors again in the future, and catch it before you toast them, you can put a motor output limit on them in betaflight. You can also set it up to apply a limit depending on what cell count battery you plug in. I’ve got that setup on a couple of my smaller builds.

Still, that doesn’t help you if you’re not aware that you accidentally bought motors rated for a lower cell count.

When I first started reading your post, I thought that it sounded kind of like what happened to me. I crashed and tossed a motor, which I never found after looking for a couple of hours as I recall.

The AIO was fine, but in replacing the motor, the signal wires for the rx and LED kept breaking off the pads or the connectors, so I had to keep resoldering them, and I wasn't very good at soldering the tiny wires to the tiny pads then. In testing the new motor, I heard a "pop", and with Lemony's help, was able to determine that I had fried the AIO.

I've since improved my soldering skills (much thanks to Lemony and iFly for their unending assistance, especially Lemony), replaced the fried AIO, replaced all 4 motors, built a couple of new wire harnesses that are longer and have new wires (iFly provided a link to the right JST connectors plus wires kit), and finally got it all back together and flying. It was like a dream to be flying it again.

I've done some really embarrassing things too, so don't feel bad about the 4s vs. 6s confusion (I clicked the intended option, and  got 6s). When testing the new motor, I forgot to put the props on, and was puzzled that it wouldn't leave the ground. That's when I heard the "pop".

The silver lining is that I had so much fun fixing and rebuilding the bot that I can't wait to do my first build, which will be a 3.5" freestyle build (no prop guards). Already have the parts in my cart at Pyrodrone (getting the O3 from Amazon), and am just waiting for them to get the AOS 3.5" frames in.

(25-Jun-2023, 07:16 PM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: Yup, that’ll do it. Thanks for sharing the lesson.

If you accidentally order higher kv motors again in the future, and catch it before you toast them, you can put a motor output limit on them in betaflight. You can also set it up to apply a limit depending on what cell count battery you plug in. I’ve got that setup on a couple of my smaller builds.

Still, that doesn’t help you if you’re not aware that you accidentally bought motors rated for a lower cell count.

Yeah I fell upon an article that said this was possible. Good to know for the future for sure but like you said, a little late now haha. 

Do you happen to know how I can be sure the AIO is still good? There's no burn marks anywhere and it still connects to Betaflight. But the only place that has the motors in stock is GEPRC and I want to add the AIO in addition to the motors but only if needed.

As far as the fc side of the aio- as long as it’s still connecting to betaflight, and fully boots up when powered only via battery, you’re likely good.

You can do a couple quick things to see if there’s an obvious issue with the esc’s, but, the only way to find out if it’s going to have an issue under load is to connect motors.

After you remove all 4 motors, do a visual inspection. If nothing looks burnt or damaged, take your multimeter and put it in continuity mode. Ideally, set it to beep so you don’t have to look at the multimeter or interpret readings.

Hold one probe on your negative battery pad/lead.
Take your other probe and individually touch each motor pad.

Then, put a probe on your positive battery pad/lead.
Take your other probe and individually touch each motor pad.

If you get continuity (a beep) while touching any of the motor pads, you know you have a toasted mosfet and your esc (in this case, your entire aio) is trash unless you’re capable of hot air work (I mean, it’s not trash- there are folks like me who primarily stay in the air by fixing and using bits other people destroyed, and dead electronics are also great to use as a soldering practice board).

No visible damage, no beeps? Cool. Connect it to an esc configurator and make sure you can read all 4 esc’s. Yeah?

Then go ahead and slap some motors on it.

As a side note, you don’t have to put the same GEPRC motors on it. I don’t remember what motors I recommended to aerokam for his 6s cinebot, but he can tell you what he got as replacements.

(25-Jun-2023, 09:40 PM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: Then go ahead and slap some motors on it.

As a side note, you don’t have to put the same GEPRC motors on it. I don’t remember what motors I recommended to aerokam for his 6s cinebot, but he can tell you what he got as replacements.

Okay so I finally had time to investigate. I did the tests you suggested with the motors still connected thinking maybe I could have definitive proof where the issue lies. The problem with that is that everything checked good lol. 

ESC configurator saw all 4 ESCs
Multimeter didn't show any continuity to anything it's not supposed to (even checked ground to known ground pads to verify I wasn't going crazy)

I can tell for sure that the motors are black and burnt but also they all still spin(although crappy) when I arm so as far as I can tell, maybe the windings are the only real issue? 

Anyways I think the AIO is good and I'll be ordering these motors: HGLRC 1804-2450KV. Exact same stator and kv. And they arrive in 2 days instead of who knows how many form GepRC. The ones you recommended in Aerokam's post are sold out so I'll give these a shot.

Windings are likely the only issue, but don’t keep spinning up those burnt motors or you could end up taking out an esc as well.

The point of removing the motors is so that if one of the motor pads test bad, you know which mosfet it is- I suppose that doesn’t really matter if you don’t do hot air work, so my apologies for over complicating things.

Edit- to clarify, when I said the only way to see if it’s going to have an issue under load is to connect a motor, what I meant was connecting a known good motor and spinning it up. Words, man. Words are hard sometimes.

(27-Jun-2023, 01:21 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: Windings are likely the only issue, but don’t keep spinning up those burnt motors or you could end up taking out an esc as well.

The point of removing the motors is so that if one of the motor pads test bad, you know which mosfet it is- I suppose that doesn’t really matter if you don’t do hot air work, so my apologies for over complicating things.

Edit- to clarify, when I said the only way to see if it’s going to have an issue under load is to connect a motor, what I meant was connecting a known good motor and spinning it up. Words, man. Words are hard sometimes.

Ha! All good, all good. I didn't spin the motors up again, I was just recollecting from the past so no further harm there. I'll remove the motors tomorrow evening and retest continuity just to be sure; but motors are ordered .

Just a quick follow up - I removed the motors and retested continuity and it looks like I'm still good there. Will circle back when the motors arrive.

Looks like you got lucky.

But in general, after crash.. after something burned.. NEVER try again or swap parts. 99% time they will get burned too.

Okay so the motors were delivered today but I haven't installed since I'm still at work (shhh). I pulled the CLI files from GEPRC website and ran the 4s and 6s tunes in Beyond Compare to see the diffs. That file is attached: 4s tune on the left, 6s tune on the right. However I have some concerns about the resource MOTOR section and the set motor_output_reordering. Why would these change based on 4s vs 6s? 

This will be my first time adjusting these values so I'm honestly not sure what a lot of these diffs are lol. I assume I can ignore the VTX tables as I already have video good to go and would mainly just focus on everything below the VTX table section? But also I don't really want to mess with my motor order since it flies correctly now. I just want the tuning correct...

Any advice is extremely appreciated!

You initially had a 4s Cinebot30, but now you’ve put the stock GEPRC 6s motors on it, and you just want the stock GEPRC Cinebot30 6s tune, yes?

Just copy/paste the profile 1 section and the rateprofile 0 section from the 6s dump into the cli (they’re near the end). It’ll give you the stock 6s pid tune and rates.

Make sure to make a backup dump/diff before you change anything, and do a couple short (30 seconds or less) flights to make sure your motors aren’t getting hot or making funny noises before you properly send it. You’ll also need to double check your motor direction, in case you switch up a wire when you install the 6s motors.

It looks to me like they’re using the same aio in both the 4s and 6s versions. I don’t know why they changed up the resources and motor order in the two dumps.