03-Oct-2016, 04:20 AM (This post was last modified: 13-Oct-2016, 02:49 AM by CesiumSalami.)
Little overdue, but wanted to share some of my builds!
This is also a chronicle of almost all my builds and drone experience thus far.
Honestly, I built two before this group both 220, brushless style, but both blew up the second I attached the battery. I'm still bewildered by that. I swear there weren't any shorts. But as soon as I plugged in the battery either a motor would release its magic smoke or an ESC would snap, crackle, pop ... it was infuriating, so I thought I'd start with something simpler. I've watched a number of build videos and all essentially track what I did - I have no idea what the deal is. Everything was rated for 4s ... so lost.
Moving on... examples of other people's builds really helped me, so I'm trying to return the favor.
For my FPV I'm using Fatshark Dominator V3's with the Realacc Diversity Receiver flashed with LaForge 1.6 Firmware.
I'm using a Spektrum DX6i - If I could go back on things - I'd get a Devo 7e maybe? Something small and cheap while I decide if something nicer is in the cards.
#1 - Eachine H8 FPV (2 Variations)
Variation A:
Quad: Eachine H8
FPV: Eachine EF-01
Notes: This was actually great! Super easy to build obviously. Flew pretty well. The EF-01, however, was far too heavy and the image quality wasn't great (but that has been covered elsewhere on this blog). Get some extra rotors and a FX798t instead and it's a blast (see below) and use dental floss to get a tighter fit for the props.
Variation B (Acro Firmware)
Quad: Eachine H8
FPV: FX798t
Firmware: Silverware (requires ST-Linker)
TX: I'm using the stock one which is challenging ... but you could use a lot of other TX's if you modify them (Devo 7E, Devo 10, etc...)
Notes: This, thing is actually really awesome. It's pretty much unbreakable and has been an AMAZING intro to acro. Do yourself a favor and drill a hole in the TX and body of the quad to yank the antenna out and upright - helps a ton for range. Be EXTREMELY careful soldering those pads because you'll rip the traces right off with minimal effort. Also, if this is something you're interested in, check the entire thread out at RC Groups there are better boards to flash and each has it's own quirks - the H8 is the "hardest" to flash with the LEAST flexibility afterwards (most can be either acro or level mode .... but the H8 only acro ...) after this modification it is VERY challenging to the fly the drone indoors. This is full of quirks - If you're looking for something polished - pass. If you're looking for something crazy cheap, fun, indestructible that acts as a great bridge to Acro - this could be just the ticket.
Here it is flying:
#2 - Eachine 110 H (2 Variations)
Frame: Eaching 110 H
Motors: Chaoli 820
FC: SciSky
FPV: FX798t
Props: A: Ladybird 55mm B: Rolling Spider 65mm (AliExpress somewhere's)
Weight ~50g (! - w/o the battery!)
Batteries: 500mah and 750mah
Version A:
Small miracle at 1:45
Version B:
Notes: Ladybird props are great. They're tough and the fit is super snug. So snug that as you press them on you can pop off the bottom of the motor The rolling spider props don't seem much better and fall off all the time. Using dental floss to get a tighter fit is essentially.
The FRAME: Is terrible. I mean, not terrible, but not great either. I crashed this incredibly hard and I guess it held up pretty well. However, little bits and pieces broke off, the standoffs snapped, and the rubber grommets tore themselves apart. The motor fit is absurdly tight and that makes the grommets next to useless. I needed a set of pliers to wedge the motors. It's also HEAVY. The whole drone weighed in around 50g WITHOUT the battery. With the FX798t mounted on the front, it's unbalanced and it doesn't even really fit with the case on because the tolerance on the rotors is so tight even with the 55mm props... I had to flip the quad to fit the 65mm props on and mount the camera towards the middle ... and then a HUGE portion of the drone is within the frame. Do yourself a favor and pass on this frame - there are other, nicer frame out there and on banggood (see below). Ultimately needed a lot of zip ties to hold things together and protect the antenna. 55mm props fits with about .25mm clearance (which isn't really enough). The scisky and the camera are top notch though.
Batteries: Both are great really. The 750's provide much steadier, longer lasting power. The 500's are more nimble and punchy. When they're done, though, they're DONE. Not too much warning.
#3 - MI110 110mm Carbon Fiber
Frame: MI110 110mm Carbon Fiber
Motors: Chaoli 820
FC: SciSky (reused from above)
FPV: 600tvl + 200 mw TX + Canabilized Rubber Ducky Antenna
Pololu StepUp: Pololu Adjustable Step-Up Voltage Regulator U1V11A
Props: Ladybird 55mm
Weight: ~38g
Camera Mount: 3D Printed.
Batteries: 500mah and 750mah
*Note: I'm 99% sure that the 55mm props will fit just fine on the frame right side up ... I just did this because I needed more room for the pololu and VTx.
Notes: Nice frame so far. Flies great. Haven't flow it enough to give a final say on things. The 55mm props would fit in the normal orientation. The only issue with the frame is that the mounting makes accessing the flight controller's USB impossible. You have to unscrew the back support to get access. I know they're trying to cut weight, but this ... doesn't seem like the best solution. The grommets on this frame are a WAY nicer fit. The image quality of the camera ... isn't amazing (the colors are so whacky). Anyone have this issue? I have the Pololu set at 4.18 v ... if that's of any use.
Update on this frame: I didn't get to fly it too much because it was damaged in a major drop after getting stuck in a tree. 40ft to pavement - It shouldn't have survived. This frame was great while it lasted. Some of the other banggood brushed boards put the USB connection far out to one side. This would be a perfect match for this frame. The scisky on the other hand - has the USB mounted in the center which isn't ideal for this frame.
#4 - 120mm Carbon Fiber
Frame: 120 Banggood something something
Motors: Chaoli 820
FC: Eachine Micro 32bits F3 Brushed Flight Control
Radio Receiver: DasMicro DSM2
FPV: Flattened FX798t
Props: Ladybird 55mm
Weight: ~38g
Camera Mount: 3D Printed.
Batteries: 500mah and 750mah
Notes: Really nice frame. 820's slide in snug without grommets. I used a glue gun to glue them in? Bad idea? The frame comes with a bunch of extra hardware, but honestly, I don't know what half of it is for!
I also got these Eachine 75mm props, which I plan on putting on sometime, but they're REALLY heavy ... anyone think this is a bad idea / will burn things up?
The board seems nice. Runs betaflight. The board comes with a pigtail and mounting hardware which is nice. I was thinking about trying out unfiltered video from the 5v out with the 600tvl camera and 200mw VTx ... but maybe later.
Flattened FX798t (just clipped the attachment points and soldered new connections) This ... was pretty fine soldering. I'm not sure I'd recommend it given how tricky the soldering could be. HOWEVER ... it is a MUCH better configuration for the camera, I think.
The DasMicro was easy enough to setup - just solder across ground and channel 1, then the PPM goes off channel 2. Connect to the 5v, GND, PPM UART on the board.
I'm still having a hard time setting this up. Haven't figured out PID tuning and this flies just OK in Acro ... but is completely out of control in Horizon. super twitchy not sure where to start. (??)
Here are the two frames for comparison:
# ? - Repurposing of the Eachine EF-01 onto a TinyWhoop
I think that the EF-01 was just too heavy for this ... because it just wasn't fun. Flight time was ~1-2 min if that ... I actually ended up selling this build on eBay and getting a ton of my money back. I may Whoopee it up soon, but right now ... I just don't feel like hanging around a 3D printer, like 7 hours. But I am enamored with that frame, Oscar. The printers I have access to just can't pull this off unless it's on fine... hence the long print time.
This is also a chronicle of almost all my builds and drone experience thus far.
Honestly, I built two before this group both 220, brushless style, but both blew up the second I attached the battery. I'm still bewildered by that. I swear there weren't any shorts. But as soon as I plugged in the battery either a motor would release its magic smoke or an ESC would snap, crackle, pop ... it was infuriating, so I thought I'd start with something simpler. I've watched a number of build videos and all essentially track what I did - I have no idea what the deal is. Everything was rated for 4s ... so lost.
Moving on... examples of other people's builds really helped me, so I'm trying to return the favor.
For my FPV I'm using Fatshark Dominator V3's with the Realacc Diversity Receiver flashed with LaForge 1.6 Firmware.
I'm using a Spektrum DX6i - If I could go back on things - I'd get a Devo 7e maybe? Something small and cheap while I decide if something nicer is in the cards.
#1 - Eachine H8 FPV (2 Variations)
Variation A:
Quad: Eachine H8
FPV: Eachine EF-01
Notes: This was actually great! Super easy to build obviously. Flew pretty well. The EF-01, however, was far too heavy and the image quality wasn't great (but that has been covered elsewhere on this blog). Get some extra rotors and a FX798t instead and it's a blast (see below) and use dental floss to get a tighter fit for the props.
Variation B (Acro Firmware)
Quad: Eachine H8
FPV: FX798t
Firmware: Silverware (requires ST-Linker)
TX: I'm using the stock one which is challenging ... but you could use a lot of other TX's if you modify them (Devo 7E, Devo 10, etc...)
Notes: This, thing is actually really awesome. It's pretty much unbreakable and has been an AMAZING intro to acro. Do yourself a favor and drill a hole in the TX and body of the quad to yank the antenna out and upright - helps a ton for range. Be EXTREMELY careful soldering those pads because you'll rip the traces right off with minimal effort. Also, if this is something you're interested in, check the entire thread out at RC Groups there are better boards to flash and each has it's own quirks - the H8 is the "hardest" to flash with the LEAST flexibility afterwards (most can be either acro or level mode .... but the H8 only acro ...) after this modification it is VERY challenging to the fly the drone indoors. This is full of quirks - If you're looking for something polished - pass. If you're looking for something crazy cheap, fun, indestructible that acts as a great bridge to Acro - this could be just the ticket.
Here it is flying:
#2 - Eachine 110 H (2 Variations)
Frame: Eaching 110 H
Motors: Chaoli 820
FC: SciSky
FPV: FX798t
Props: A: Ladybird 55mm B: Rolling Spider 65mm (AliExpress somewhere's)
Weight ~50g (! - w/o the battery!)
Batteries: 500mah and 750mah
Version A:
Small miracle at 1:45
Version B:
Notes: Ladybird props are great. They're tough and the fit is super snug. So snug that as you press them on you can pop off the bottom of the motor The rolling spider props don't seem much better and fall off all the time. Using dental floss to get a tighter fit is essentially.
The FRAME: Is terrible. I mean, not terrible, but not great either. I crashed this incredibly hard and I guess it held up pretty well. However, little bits and pieces broke off, the standoffs snapped, and the rubber grommets tore themselves apart. The motor fit is absurdly tight and that makes the grommets next to useless. I needed a set of pliers to wedge the motors. It's also HEAVY. The whole drone weighed in around 50g WITHOUT the battery. With the FX798t mounted on the front, it's unbalanced and it doesn't even really fit with the case on because the tolerance on the rotors is so tight even with the 55mm props... I had to flip the quad to fit the 65mm props on and mount the camera towards the middle ... and then a HUGE portion of the drone is within the frame. Do yourself a favor and pass on this frame - there are other, nicer frame out there and on banggood (see below). Ultimately needed a lot of zip ties to hold things together and protect the antenna. 55mm props fits with about .25mm clearance (which isn't really enough). The scisky and the camera are top notch though.
Batteries: Both are great really. The 750's provide much steadier, longer lasting power. The 500's are more nimble and punchy. When they're done, though, they're DONE. Not too much warning.
#3 - MI110 110mm Carbon Fiber
Frame: MI110 110mm Carbon Fiber
Motors: Chaoli 820
FC: SciSky (reused from above)
FPV: 600tvl + 200 mw TX + Canabilized Rubber Ducky Antenna
Pololu StepUp: Pololu Adjustable Step-Up Voltage Regulator U1V11A
Props: Ladybird 55mm
Weight: ~38g
Camera Mount: 3D Printed.
Batteries: 500mah and 750mah
*Note: I'm 99% sure that the 55mm props will fit just fine on the frame right side up ... I just did this because I needed more room for the pololu and VTx.
Notes: Nice frame so far. Flies great. Haven't flow it enough to give a final say on things. The 55mm props would fit in the normal orientation. The only issue with the frame is that the mounting makes accessing the flight controller's USB impossible. You have to unscrew the back support to get access. I know they're trying to cut weight, but this ... doesn't seem like the best solution. The grommets on this frame are a WAY nicer fit. The image quality of the camera ... isn't amazing (the colors are so whacky). Anyone have this issue? I have the Pololu set at 4.18 v ... if that's of any use.
Update on this frame: I didn't get to fly it too much because it was damaged in a major drop after getting stuck in a tree. 40ft to pavement - It shouldn't have survived. This frame was great while it lasted. Some of the other banggood brushed boards put the USB connection far out to one side. This would be a perfect match for this frame. The scisky on the other hand - has the USB mounted in the center which isn't ideal for this frame.
#4 - 120mm Carbon Fiber
Frame: 120 Banggood something something
Motors: Chaoli 820
FC: Eachine Micro 32bits F3 Brushed Flight Control
Radio Receiver: DasMicro DSM2
FPV: Flattened FX798t
Props: Ladybird 55mm
Weight: ~38g
Camera Mount: 3D Printed.
Batteries: 500mah and 750mah
Notes: Really nice frame. 820's slide in snug without grommets. I used a glue gun to glue them in? Bad idea? The frame comes with a bunch of extra hardware, but honestly, I don't know what half of it is for!
I also got these Eachine 75mm props, which I plan on putting on sometime, but they're REALLY heavy ... anyone think this is a bad idea / will burn things up?
The board seems nice. Runs betaflight. The board comes with a pigtail and mounting hardware which is nice. I was thinking about trying out unfiltered video from the 5v out with the 600tvl camera and 200mw VTx ... but maybe later.
Flattened FX798t (just clipped the attachment points and soldered new connections) This ... was pretty fine soldering. I'm not sure I'd recommend it given how tricky the soldering could be. HOWEVER ... it is a MUCH better configuration for the camera, I think.
The DasMicro was easy enough to setup - just solder across ground and channel 1, then the PPM goes off channel 2. Connect to the 5v, GND, PPM UART on the board.
I'm still having a hard time setting this up. Haven't figured out PID tuning and this flies just OK in Acro ... but is completely out of control in Horizon. super twitchy not sure where to start. (??)
Here are the two frames for comparison:
# ? - Repurposing of the Eachine EF-01 onto a TinyWhoop
I think that the EF-01 was just too heavy for this ... because it just wasn't fun. Flight time was ~1-2 min if that ... I actually ended up selling this build on eBay and getting a ton of my money back. I may Whoopee it up soon, but right now ... I just don't feel like hanging around a 3D printer, like 7 hours. But I am enamored with that frame, Oscar. The printers I have access to just can't pull this off unless it's on fine... hence the long print time.