After building my 3" SugarGlider, I saw that Blair (BRDM) was designing a 2.5" quad with a top mounted battery (or a HD backpack).

Missed out on the first pre-order, but managed to get one of the second batch!

Kit list as follows:

RCX 1304 4000kv motors
HGLRC 13A micro ESC's
FuriousFPV Piko F4 FC
Depinned FrSky R-XSR Rx
Runcam Micro Swift 2
EWRF-7081VTL1S 25mw VTX.

Props are the 2540 Flash or have some Racerstar 2530 4 blades, as looking for smooth and steady rather than a racer (I know, I know...)

Only test hovered in the house ATM as I keep blowing my VTX's...

It's a really nice bit of kit! BRDM website

New VTX turned up today - it's a bit tight opp there...

You can save a few grammes there by using thinner wires to the ESCs. The ones you have now are thicker than the wires to your battery which is kind of pointless. The RX antennas work best when the active part is straight, so you might like to consider shortening them.

Nice looking machine though, I'll bet it will be pretty quick with those motors and props!

What battery will you be using?

Yes, that Unify looks HUGE lol, may want to consider swapping it out for an Eachine VTX03. Guys are reporting amazing performance, it's the size of a postage stamp and most importantly for a build like this, it's almost 5 grams lighter than the Unify!!

(26-Jan-2018, 05:57 PM)unseen Wrote: You can save a few grammes there by using thinner wires to the ESCs. The ones you have now are thicker than the wires to your battery which is kind of pointless. The RX antennas work best when the active part is straight, so you might like to consider shortening them.

Nice looking machine though, I'll bet it will be pretty quick with those motors and props!

What battery will you be using?

Thanks unseen, it was a conscious decision going with the thicker ESC wires as it give some integrity to the ESC on the arm, I'm not using zip ties or sticky tape to hold them down...

It's not as fast as you'd expect as it's only got 4000kv motors - it's actually more efficient on 4 blade Racerstar 2435 PRO props.

I've got 450mAh 3S Nanotechs and 800mAh 3S Turnigy Graphines, but they're a bit lardy...
 

(26-Jan-2018, 06:32 PM)RENOV8R Wrote: Yes, that Unify looks HUGE lol, may want to consider swapping it out for an Eachine VTX03.  Guys are reporting amazing performance, it's the size of a postage stamp and most importantly for a build like this, it's almost 5 grams lighter than the Unify!!

I blew up all my 25mw 5v VTX's building the damn thing - sometimes it does pay to RTFM.

As this is one of my larger quads (and I can ) I wanted a VTX with SmartAudio - there just doesn't seem to be a battery voltage VTX with working SmartAudio (>Betaflight 3.3) that's smaller?

Finally rebuilt the 2.5" Nemesis as I also managed to snag a 3" second hand. All the original electrics have migrated to the 3" now and am waiting for the new RunCam Split Min v2 to complete that build.

Now using a CLRacing Mini F4 FC, Racerstar 12A BLHeli_32 4-in-1 ESC, Eaglepower 1104 7000kv motors, FrSky R-XSR Rx and a Runcam Swift Mini, TBS Unify Pro Nano with Lumenier Micro Dipole Linear Antenna for FPV.

81g dry and 109g with a 2S 450mAh NanoTech.

Looks great and will be a blast to fly. One suggestion, I do my RX wires the same way but you have the active part exposed. You should have the active part on the zip tie under the shrink wrap. This not only protects the active element but keeps the antennas straight and more close to a 90 degree angle. If the wires are too long they can be shortened but you have to do it in a very specific way, measure the length of the active part and then after trimming the wire you have to strip the outer insulation and shielding from the inner wire exposing the same length as the original element. You should be able to avoid this by routing the wires in such and way that the slack is taken up without cutting into it.

That little thing is going to be a fast flier.

Thanks Hypurr - modified as indicated!

Always knew the active part was the important bit, but thought it needed to be exposed...

On 2S it's lovely, 3S - AARRRRGGGHHHH!!!!

(23-Aug-2018, 01:56 PM)jimbo_wa Wrote: Thanks Hypurr - modified as indicated!

Always knew the active part was the important bit, but thought it needed to be exposed...

On 2S it's lovely, 3S - AARRRRGGGHHHH!!!!

As long as they are held away from the carbon fiber frame they are good.  The plastic zip tie and shrink wrap won't harm the signal.

Eventually you'll want AARRRRRRGGGGHHHH all the time and the 2s will feel weak to you.

Looks great! I live rippin' these tiny beasts!