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Armattan Rooster.
#16
Unseen new idea for you haha


Why anodize titanium
http://www.electrohio.com/Finishing/TiAn...dizing.htm
Don't be a LOS'er, be an FPV'er :) -- Blog - Facebook - Instagram - Twitter - Google Plus
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#17
That's nice and simple. Great colours as well!
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#18
@unseen Looks like Hobbyrc.com has the frame in stock. It is a little more than from Armattan.
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#19
Just a heads up about the bolts issue, not sure if you've seen the Armattan video but they've had some issues with the supplied bolts.  Mine has this problem.  Some of the bolts can't be tightened properly because the hex size and depth is not as per spec.  For the bolts holding the arms on this is an issue because you need to get them pretty tight to prevent any movement on the arms.  I emailed Armattan support and they've already despatched a new full set of bolts with a 1.5mm head depth rather than 1mm.
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#20
How wide are the arms on the Rooster?
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#21
I guess "not very wide" is the answer. Looking at the pictures of the Rooster beside the Chameleon, they seem significantly thinner, so that's made me rethink which ESCs I want.

The DYS Aria are 16mm wide by 32mm long, but sold out everywhere I look.
Then I noticed the Holybro Tekko32 ESCs which are 15mm wide by 30mm long, but they seem to be sold out everywhere as well!

Suggestions for narrow BLHeli_32 ESCs around 35A with current sensor and telemetry are welcome.

I had an old debt paid back to me last week, so I've just had a little shopping spree and now have a 5" Rooster on the way from the UK! I've also changed my mind about the flight controller as both the Bardwell F4 and the CL Racing F4S are impossible to get hold of. So I settled on a Matek F405-CTR, which has all the things I'm looking for, including pads for ESC telemetry, an MPU6000 IMU, Betaflight OSD, current sensor, an SD card for black box and lots of UARTs.

For the motors, I chose the BrotherHobby Returner R5 2306 2450kv Deadpool version. Maybe I'll anodise the camera protector on the Rooster red to match the motors. Smile

FPV will be a RunCam Split 2 and a TBS Unify HV Race Edition (I really don't need more than 200mW). I went for an R-XSR receiver.

Hopefully, by the time these things start arriving from various parts of the world, there will be some good BLHeli_32 ESCs with telemetry and all the bells and whistles in stock somewhere! It's not as if I'm going to be out flying much for the next couple of months as the weather forecast for Stockholm is promising us much colder temperatures and up to 1 metre of snow during the latter part of next week!
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#22
A red wattle for the rooster sound like the way to go to me!
Windless fields and smokeless builds
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#23
(12-Jan-2018, 07:37 PM)Tom BD Bad Wrote: A red wattle for the rooster sound like the way to go to me!

The voltage needed for the red colour seems to be around 100V, so I'll have to build a voltage multiplier to boost my bench power supply up to that kind of level. Sounds like a lot of hassle, but it might be worth it.

Big Grin
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#24
So I ordered some Wraith32 V2 ESCs. They're virtually identical to the Tekko32 ESCs.

That's everything ordered. Now the waiting game begins...
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#25
Could you not make a simple circuit to bridge rectify and regulate mains voltage? Asked by a man who never learned that sticking your fingers in the plug socket isn't such a good idea!
Windless fields and smokeless builds
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#26
(12-Jan-2018, 08:14 PM)Tom BD Bad Wrote: Could you not make a simple circuit to bridge rectify and regulate mains voltage? Asked by a man who never learned that sticking your fingers in the plug socket isn't such a good idea!

Turning 220V AC into 100V AC needs (in the simplest design) a transformer. Turning that into DC is simple enough with a bridge rectifier and a couple of smoothing capacitors, but a 220V to 100V transformer isn't exactly a common item and if the final voltage didn't produce the desired colour, you then need some way to adjust the voltage. Then it starts getting just as complicated as boosting the output from my 0V - 30V bench supply.

(Actually, to get 100V DC actually needs something less than 100V AC at the output of the transformer as you'll end up with 1.414 times the AC voltage after rectification.)


Checking to see if something is live by sticking a single finger onto it isn't such a bad deal as you'd think as long as you're not earthed. 220V feels like a vibration if you gently touch a 220V cable without being earthed.

It's when that voltage can travel between your arms or from your finger to ground that it gets painful or, in the arm to arm version, fatal.


Big Grin
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#27
Yeah. I realized as I was writing that it would end up being more work than modding your existing PSU, but because I AM a master mind I thought "I've started so I'll finish" Wink
Windless fields and smokeless builds
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#28
That reminds me of this gem:



Classic!
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