Hey everyone,

between all the Aliens and ZMR's i want to present you my Armattan F1-6.

It is my third quadcopter and over all my 5th flying "device".
Last year i bombed my first 250 (Diatone #37) into a tree with full throttle, where i bend 3 motors and broke the frame and PDB.
Luckily the rest survived so as a winter project and some money aside i build my Armattan.
Shout out to Chris, these frames are great! Just the screws are.... let's say okay.

Here is what you are looking for,

The Part List:

- Armattan F1-6 with PDB (and Polulu 5V 1A Step-Down)

- Cobra 2204 1960kv
- HQ 6x45
- KISS 18A
- SPRacingF3 (Betaflight 2.2, 2kHz, Airmode)
- nano-tech 1800mAh 35C 4S
- X4R-SB
- HS1177
- ImmersionRC 5.8GHz
- SpiroNET SPW
- MinimOSD
- RunCam2

I fly with a Turnigy 9X (er9x and XJT) and Fatshark Dom V2 goggles.

TOW is 667g (i need to get rid of one gramm though)

Pictures:


What came in the post? Nicely packed!



Dry fit. On the first view this wasn't clear



Fitted the bottom plates together. Don't forget Loctite kids. (Forgot to solder the Polulu...)


Measurement fit with my old CC3D.


Picture from today. I'm impressed with the weight and power =)

ToDo: Get a 3D printed 20° mount for the RunCam!

Video:


So long,
have a nice day
Diego

Nice build! I'm an Armattan fan too. Currently working on retrofitting the integrated flight controller onto my F1-226 before adding the FPV POD.

(18-Jan-2016, 12:34 PM)Jason Wrote: Nice build! I'm an Armattan fan too. Currently working on retrofitting the integrated flight controller onto my F1-226 before adding the FPV POD.

The Cabron and construction is really nice ... but i ripped of my 3rd screw now. Will use my bit heavier stainless steel screws now.
The ones Chris provides are light ... but only light. Gonna mail him today about it.

But, to continue this thread a bit as my blog:


This was the day after the last video. I'm starting to get a feeling again.

Yeah, replacing the bolts was the first thing I did....

How are you getting mah in your OSD?

(19-Jan-2016, 01:28 PM)Jason Wrote: How are you getting mah in your OSD?

The OSD is a minimOSD with MWOSD 1.5

You just have to enable telemetry in your Clean/Betaflight and connect the OSD with the FC

I have a (virtual) current meter on my FC. Took me some time tuning so the reading shown is kinda reliable.
I don't need a perfect reading. Most of the times i land cause the voltage drops to low when i give it a lot of throttle.

I see. I'm using Micro MinimOSD with with a Naze rev6, so I guess I could add it too. Do you think its useful?

(19-Jan-2016, 03:50 PM)Jason Wrote: I see. I'm using Micro MinimOSD with with a Naze rev6, so I guess I could add it too. Do you think its useful?

I think it's worth it. Precise enough to get a feeling of how long you can fly.

---

So, went out flying thes week after work. 
New spot on my way home, so no wild action, just some spooky branches.
Feeling pretty well with all those trees around.

Nice build.

I'm planning on doing nearly this exact build! The lifetime warranty on the Armattan frames is what got me. Your build looks very nice and light weight too. What kind of flight time do you get with those 1800mah packs? Is this the size battery you would recommend for the f1-6? Thanks keep up the great flying! 

(26-Feb-2016, 07:48 PM)johnsonty Wrote: I'm planning on doing nearly this exact build! The lifetime warranty on the Armattan frames is what got me. Your build looks very nice and light weight too. What kind of flight time do you get with those 1800mah packs? Is this the size battery you would recommend for the f1-6? Thanks keep up the great flying! 

Since they swapped out their screws i can recommend them.
I'll loose some more weight the next days when my nanoMinimOSD arrives =)

My last quad was a 5" 2300kv build but i wanted some more flight time and a 6".
Cause of that i got the 1960kv motors.
I could not test any other batteries but i really like the punch.
But i would recommend to go for 75+ C LiPos
I have one Tattu 75C 1800 and i can nearly go about 10 seconds full throttle upwards until the low voltage alarm sounds for the first time.
The nanos i have 35-70C make only about 5 sec.

Flight time depends on your style. While acro practice i fly about 3 min hard and add about 2-3 minutes cruising (35C nanos)
With the Tattu i recently flew about 8 minutes cruising around a playground with no hard manouvers.

In two days i get props again, if the weather stays good i can make some tests.

That would be great to see some more tests or flight footage! I always enjoy watching more flying! I am considering getting the Nanotech 1800mah 65-130c 4s batteries. I fell they may be overkill and they are pricey but I just am not sure if the Nanotech 1300 45-90c batterys will give me as good of performance. Theoretically depending on the prop combination these cobras could hit like 20amps each right? So that would mean I would need at least 80amps of pull from the battery. (I.E. 1300mah 65c or 1800mah 45c)

I am also trying to choose between the cobra 2204 2300kv and the 2204 1960kv. As well as potentially the cobra 2206 2100kv or lumenier 2206 2350kv. So many good choices. I am mostly planning on running 5in props but I am getting the F1-6 to be able to have the option to use 6in if I decide to at some point. I have checked the test data on all of these motors on rotorbench.com and they seem to be very similar, especially when you use mildly pitched props. I have read that teh 2300kv motors will be quicker in changing speeds therefore better for freestyle and such. Would you agree with that statement, having tried both motors yourself? 


Also do you have any opinions on the new integrated naze/pdb that armattan has? I'm assuming it would be a cleaner build but are there any benifits to doing a detached FC? 

Sorry for all the questions. I am not new to the hobby but this is going to be my first higher end quad build and I just want to do it right! Thanks for all the help, I really do appreciate it. 

No need to be sorry, we all have to start somewhere.

For the LiPos:
20 - 22A is appropriate. I fly 18A KISS ESC and hope to not burn one 

I guess the rating of the nano-techs is not what's on the package.
I drop my 35-70C 1800mAh (so in theory 126A, 31,5 per motor) from about 16V to about 13,5V with under 3 sec full throttle. ...

For the nanos i would suggest you only calculate with the low rating (eg. 35C) and subtract like 20% to be safe (so 35-7=28C --> 50,4A --> 12,6A per Motor)
So this would be not enough.
The 65C i guess is highyl overrated, but i would like to see a test of 'em. (65-13=52C --> 93,6A --> 23,4A per Motor) Sounds suitable at least.

I will try one of those packs myself in the future cause the Tattus are so damn expensive (but good).

For the motor/props:
You really should build one quad for one prop size. I chose 6" cause i wanted more acceleration and sharpness and for a "none professional" 6" is agile enough.
Nowadays i think i would stick to 5" again but triblades, but again, they are expensive if you crash a lot.

Get the 2204 2300kv for 5" or the 1960kv for 6" (less speed --> more torque).

All 2206 motors have one negative: The weight. You add about 15g per motor (60g more weight)
And they will draw more current, so you need bigger ESC's
Of course they come with more power.

Speed change:
Yes i had both of 'em.
There are two factors of acceleration (or deceleration)
1. Force
2. Inertia

Acceleration
to 1.: Force is the torque of the motor. With the same output power higher torque wins, imho you notice this really well and that's why i got back to 6"
to 2.: 6" Props have more inertia, so they slow down the acceleration. But it's about the same as an 5" tri blade so in the end point 1. is important

Deceleration
to 1.: Two parts. First of the drag. More pitch, more drag. Also More surface, more drag. so 5" < 5"BN < 6" < 6"BN .....in respect to all having the same pitch.
to 1.: Second part: motor. If you have active breaking the motor works like a generator. I DON'T KNOW how big the difference is. 
to 2.: Lower inertia is always better (only not, if you autorotate, but you can't do that). Since the forces are multiple times smaller that the Acceleration here is where inertia shines.

But in the end you have to see it like this:
5" accelerates faster but needs more speed for the same thrust.
So in the first (wild guess) half of a second the 6" with a torque heavy motor wins (more snap on stops, better in curves)
After this the 5" has more pitch velocity and gets faster.
Downside is, the faster you go, the more drag you have, so your efficiency decreases.


So enough theory for now. If you have questions, feel free to ask ... i'm an aeronatics engineer, i love this topic

[quote pid='1493' dateline='1456827534']
So enough theory for now. If you have questions, feel free to ask ... i'm an aeronatics engineer, i love this topic
[/quote]

Haha thats awesome! I was just about to say I love the in depth theory, I am actually graduating with my degree in aerospace engineering in May!    If you don't mind sharing I would love to know what you do?

I think I will focus on 5in only for this build and probably go with the 2300kv motors!