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Armattan CL Racing F4, a real alternative to Betaflight F4 Boris B?
#1


Introduction
The arrival discreetly of CL RACING F4 AIO BY ARMATTAN the market is a habit of communication to Armattan. If it works people will make the ad! Well I decided to talk to you because I team for two good months all my builds with this card.
I mounted quite F3 Betaflight Boris B and each time, this card which promised a high standard of disappointed me. Including welds on GND.
I also tried las Matek 405 and missing a trick. Moreover, they are beck in service due to defects of components, something that I had never been on a flight card.
The HGLRC F4 Pro v5 did not take either the road race, as the VTX is not allowed see his absence the CE mark.
That's when I went to the site of Drone FPV racer a French shop not too far Belgians countries I found the  CL RACING F4 AIO BY ARMATTAN
Presentation

Characteristics
  • CPU - STM32F405RGT6 (F4)
  • MPU-6000
  • SD card slot
  • Bec 5v 1.2A
  • Bec 7.6v 1.2A
  • Betaflight integrated OSD
  • Current Integrated Sensor
  • 3 UARTS USB +
  • 5V LED Strip
  • 4 motors on each corner
  • inverter SBUS
  • PPM and separate sat_rx
  • Support Smart Audio TP for VTX
  • DShot Ready
  • VCP dedicated
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Video
a short presentation.

builds
Versus Quad One published here  https://pimousse.be/index.php/2017/08/13/versus-quad-one-taille-race/

The Simplex Ultralight not published

The BEC is not enough power for your Runcam Split, so be careful 

Conclusion
In fact, the flight card is ahead of Betaflight in this case because it is designed to be fully functional when official Betaflight 3.2 will be released.
The buzzer works since the first beta 3.2 and is a micro programmable buzzer.
Armattan never tried to monetize the sales of flight controllers. So if you are wondering why the price is so low, that's why.
"It's nice to have a small margin, but at the end of the day, we are qualified quad manufacturers. The CF is a simple product for us, but they are a very important commodity. We need something solid for our buildings and that's it. This one has been carefully tested and we spent a lot of time to develop this flight controller. "
There are rumors that the designer, Cheng Lin, spent months in complete isolation on this design on Tibetan mountains. When he returned, he had a long beard, fingernails of dirty feet and nothing but rags to wear. But he also had a great smile. To date, Cheng never spoke of his isolated moments. It seems imminent that it is preparing for another hiatus. We can certainly expect to see beautiful designs in the future, as the discipline evolves evolves like this.
Link:  CL RACING F4 AIO BY ARMATTAN
Good build![/font][/size][/font][/size][/color]
http://pimousse.be/ Belgian FPV & Aeromodelism 
[-] The following 1 user Likes Pimousse's post:
  • Tom BD Bad
#2
I, for one, love this flight controller. I recommend it to anyone that would hear me. Only problem, I think I recommended to too many people. Now I can't find it in stock to buy another. No good deeds go unpublished.
[-] The following 3 users Like voodoo614's post:
  • Pimousse, Tom BD Bad, unseen
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#3
agreee
http://pimousse.be/ Belgian FPV & Aeromodelism 
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#4
How easy is it to connect this flight controller to a 4-in-1 ESC and still use the current sensor?
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#5
(10-Oct-2017, 02:35 PM)unseen Wrote: How easy is it to connect this flight controller to a 4-in-1 ESC and still use the current sensor?

Same as most other AIO, you have to connect the ESC pads and run to the 4in1. But the wiring for all the other components are so clean.
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#6
(10-Oct-2017, 08:40 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: Same as most other AIO, you have to connect the ESC pads and run to the 4in1. But the wiring for all the other components are so clean.

Sure, but I see that the current sensor's shunt is much smaller than the usual one and pulling full power from one ESC pad isn't a good idea.

On the BFF3, it's easy enough to solder an appropriately sized wire to the output side of the shunt resistor, but it would seem a little harder to do on this one.
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#7
(12-Oct-2017, 06:43 PM)unseen Wrote: Sure, but I see that the current sensor's shunt is much smaller than the usual one and pulling full power from one ESC pad isn't a good idea.

On the BFF3, it's easy enough to solder an appropriately sized wire to the output side of the shunt resistor, but it would seem a little harder to do on this one.

Not harder to wire. You run straight off the stunt. Doesn't matter how small the stunt is. All the current is going through it, so it will handle the load. You can also connect all the ESCs pads together then run one + and - wire to the 4in1.
[-] The following 1 user Likes voodoo614's post:
  • unseen
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