Hey everyone.  I am building a new 3" quad and would like some feedback as to the parts I'm using.
Each build I do I always learn a lot as I go along, make mistakes, fix stuff and move forward.

This is the first time I'm using a few new pieces of tech though.

• F7 FC
  
• ESC telemetry
  
• RX Telemetry
  

Just wondering if there is any tips with these technologies I should know?

Here's my setup.


Rotor Riot The Acrobrat by Ummagawd
CLRACING Heli-Nation Talon F7 Fusion 20x20 Flight Controller
Airbot Ori32 BLHeli32 25A 4-in-1 20x20 ESC (Includes breakout cables)
FrSky R-XSR 2.4GHz 16CH ACCST Micro Receiver w/ S-Bus & CPPM
EMAX RS1408 5-6S Brushless Motor EMX-2309 – Style: 3600kv
TrueRC AXII MMCX 5.8ghz Antenna – Style: RHCP
TBS Unify Pro 5G8 HV - Race 2 (MMCX)
Caddx Turtle V2 1080p 60fps Mini HD FPV Camera w/ DVR


Thank you,
ph2t

I feel you have solid selections in your choices. I really think you have picked motors that will be awesome with that frame. What pack capacity are you considering?

While the Ori32 is a good ESC. just keep in mind that it is a very wide board which will stick out the sides of the Acrobrat frame and be vulnerable to damage in a crash. I was originally going to use one of those on mine but after seeing some Acrobrat builds on rotorbuilds that used it, I decided against it and went with an HGLRC XJB-F440 stack instead which fits the frame much better.

Looks good

i dont have experience, but about esc telemetry (if i understand it), there is a new filter feater „rpm filter“ what can cause terrible problems, if something dont work well, quads seems to go crazy... flyaway... i would readabout alot first - i dont own true knowledge about.

whhaaaaat 3600kv on 6s x-D sounds like ton of speed! what prop will you add?
edit: they are marketing cheaters, the 3600kv are rated for 3-4s, the factory tests are on 3-4s
https://emaxmodel.com/rs1408.html
no new speedrecord on micros but very good motors anyway i beleive.

(07-Aug-2019, 01:48 AM)kaitylynn Wrote: I feel you have solid selections in your choices. I really think you have picked motors that will be awesome with that frame. What pack capacity are you considering?

Thankyou kaitylynn, I’m using gnb 550mah 3s and Bonka 460mah 4s packs. They may be on the lower capacity side for this though, will see how the runtime turns out.

Those packs do seem small. I'm using a similar setup (https://intofpv.com/t-joining-the-brat-p...rtle-build), but with the smaller 1306 Emax motors, and I use 650mAh 4S packs.

Besides that, it's looking like a nice setup! Having the power tabs at the side of the ESC should avoid the mounting problems I had with mine.

I reckon you will use the 3s pack once. It's going to hammer on 4s

(07-Aug-2019, 01:54 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: While the Ori32 is a good ESC. just keep in mind that it is a very wide board which will stick out the sides of the Acrobrat frame and be vulnerable to damage in a crash. I was originally going to use one of those on mine but after seeing some Acrobrat builds on rotorbuilds that used it, I decided against it and went with an HGLRC XJB-F440 stack instead which fits the frame much better.

Good point Snow! I felt that could be an issue with the esc given what I saw in online photos. Having it in my hand I feel it may be ok.
I read over Banelle’s great acrobrat build thread and I might perform a motor pad remapping to make it fit well.

(08-Aug-2019, 09:34 AM)Banelle Wrote: Those packs do seem small. I'm using a similar setup (https://intofpv.com/t-joining-the-brat-p...rtle-build), but with the smaller 1306 Emax motors, and I use 650mAh 4S packs.

Besides that, it's looking like a nice setup! Having the power tabs at the side of the ESC should avoid the mounting problems I had with mine.

Yeah your build thread got me into trouble today, it popped up as a mis-tabbed tab (??) in chrome when I was doing a presentation to the bosses. There was a slight wtf moment as they all stared at the guts of your acrobrat build, trying to figure out what they were looking at, lol

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(08-Aug-2019, 09:48 AM)UrbanJungle1966 Wrote: I reckon you will use the 3s pack once. It's going to hammer on 4s

Touché mate, ya probably right!!

(07-Aug-2019, 05:12 AM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: i dont have experience, but about esc telemetry (if i understand it), there is a new filter feater „rpm filter“ what can cause terrible problems, if something dont work well, quads seems to go crazy... flyaway... i would readabout alot first - i dont own true knowledge about.

whhaaaaat 3600kv on 6s x-D sounds like ton of speed! what prop will you add?
edit: they are marketing cheaters, the 3600kv are rated for 3-4s, the factory tests are on 3-4s
https://emaxmodel.com/rs1408.html
no new speedrecord on micros but very good motors anyway i beleive.

You have a good eye! Yes they are the 3500kv motors for a 3s/4s setup I’m going for with this build.

Thankyou for the information regarding filters mate, gives me some extra research to do.

I’m going with the avan 3 inch props.

I just did my first F7 build and used an R-XSR. It's cool you can use the S.Port lead in the connector to a UART on the FC and connect via FPort rather than SBUS which evidently is slightly faster ... but my OCD just likes to see RSSI in my goggles lol.

Thanks ronin! You still had RSSI in the OSD yeah? I just assume you don't need to map an AUX channel to RSSI (Like a firmware upgraded XM+)?

As for batteries, I'll stay with the 550mah GNG 3S and 470mah Bonka 4S for now and see what the flight times are like.

That's the bugger with form factor changes in this hobby, batteries are so bloody type specific. Thank you gravity, ya !@#$%!

Yup RSSI in the OSD and a bunch of other sensors I can tap in OpenTX. No need to map anything in the CLI but you do need to designate the UART in the Ports tab of Betaflight. (Although it does bug me that now I am using up a UART while that SBUS port is unused ... so maybe if there's any remapping it's for that.)

As for the XM Plus I think with the proper telemetry firmware (e.g., C16 Telemetry) you can just assign channel 16 (12) to telemetry in Betaflight no need to CLI remap there either.

Well time does pass doesn't it?  
Buying a house got in the way of this build, I pulled the parts out the other night and finally started a form of convalescence after my recent hiccup.   I said I was going to do a build out of anger and here it is.  I call it the ANGRY BRAT  .



In the end the build specs changed a bit.  I'm on crossfire now, the r-xsr will prolly never get used, lol.   The motors aren't the emax, they're in the drink - I used T motor 1408 3750Kv instead.   They are very smooth.

I think the CADDX turtle v2 is a funny beast of a camera.  It has so much potential yet at the same time sucks balls as a fpv camera.  I've found the following to be a good setup.

• Capture in 1080P 60fps, always - down sample to 30fps (if you want to) during editing.
  
• In camera settings, saturation at 4, sharpness at 3.  All other settings default.  
  
• FOV is set to medium - this results in no props in view for this particular frame
  
• Use the glass lens, aka special lens - a better picture than the stock "turbo" lens
  
• Use ND16 filter in bright sunlight - this filter cuts out a fair bit of light - does wonders for jello, especially that really shitty jello that is almost hard to see but you know it's there   
  
• I would use ND8 for regular sunlight.
  
• If you use a ND8/16 filter with the glass lens you will need to tak it down with something as the curved surface of the glass lens doesn't fit as well as the stock turbo lens which has a flat surface.
  
• Use hot glue to secure the multi-strand cable that feeds from the camera to the daughterboard.  Hot glue secure only the daughterboard side as the camera side of the cable is secured under a plastic cover already.
  
• Changing lenses on the turtle - you need to make sure the focal point (sharpest portion of the picture) is at approx 30 meters away.   This is critical.  I am still tuning mine.  My focus point is closer (approx 5m) - you can tell in the video I've posted here with trees in the middle -> background being a bit fuzzy.
  
• Changing lenses - secure the lens with the locking ring - then secure all of that with hot glue to the locking ring doesn't vibrate loose (this happens on my bashed up ratel as well)
  

So you only need to do all that   

Here's what I'm talking about with the lens.



Angry Brat is a heavy beast, with a 4S 650 GNB pack it is clocking in at 275g.




Here's a video of a more successful morning of maiden flying.    

The first part of the video is without any filters, the second part is with the ND16 filter.  I feel even on the sunny day the ND8 would be sufficient.   The ND16 seems to attenuate the light a fair bit.   Two filters in Adobe Premiere applied - Lens fix - GOPRO session4 - wide and Cinescape film lumetri effect at 25.



cheers,

ph2t.