hello, i have been looking to get into FPV racing for a while and noticed now is a good time as prices for getting into the hobby are way down

this is my shopping list for the parts, iam open to getting an upgrade for each one as long as it is less than $5 each.
http://imgur.com/a/pAkil

as the ESC i want is out of stock on Banggood i settled on Aliexpress instead
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product...43231.html

i have quite a few questions as iam very concerned and uneducated on building my own FPV drone 

my first question is obviously are these parts compatible, also is there a quick way to check the compatibility of parts?

as mentioned above iam willing to pay a bit more for higher quality parts and what not

are these batterys any good? iam have been turned away from lipos for quite some time due to safety reasons and iam willing to go so far to buy a lipo safety bag/other alternatives

is this esc able to handle the 4S battery? i have read quite a few bad things about ratings not being correct

will everything work as intended, will the goggles hook up to the VTX or the transmitter work with the FC and such

any lipo safety tips, am i able to charge them overnight or leave them unintended. and how dangerous are they really?

one of my main concerns is if these quad parts have any way of telling low voltage/battery or do i have to buy some sort of separate part

does this build leave room for future upgrades? better motors and batterys and other such things

do you guys have any knowledge on how long they will take to charge? i have searched but have found nothing

my final questions is about the charger, will it have enough power and all that jazz to charge the battery, and how safe is it? i see hobbyking selling it so i have no concern they would sell and dangerous charger

Also is the FS-ia6b or the FS-ia10b any better than what iam currently getting, its only $1 more than this and i dont know if its compatible



Thanks for reading  
sorry about the wall of text its just iam very new to this hobby and have so many questions

Hello, from what I can see everything should be ok, although you'll get plenty of replies from members who are much more qualified than I am about your build, and may correct me if I'm wrong.

One thing that would concern me is the 4-in-1 ESC you have opted for. They are great as they save on space and are easier to install, but from my own experience, when one ESC gets damaged or stops working (which has happened plenty of times) the entire thing needs to be replaced. You'd probably be better buying a pack of individual ESCs as they are more easily replaced when one gets fried or damaged. On the plus side, 20A ESCs with those motors run very nicely!

Also the Matek PDB is good in that it offers built-in BEC, but again, from experience, instead of using the included XT60 connector and soldering it directly to the board, I would buy an XT60 pigtail and solder it into the connectors on the board. It also increases the risk of that part of the circuit simply snapping off in a bad crash, as there's no flexibility. On one of my first builds, I soldered the XT60 directly to the board as directed, but after a few crashes it started coming loose to the point power was interrupted. Using a pigtail connector
there instead gives you a big flexibility when connecting the battery and won't cause as much damage in the event of a crash.

Good luck!

why are you getting 2 chargers? LOL

I probably would recommend getting the DYS F4, although I don't have previous experience with it, it looks like a good deal, it has integrated OSD and PDB so you don't need the PDB:
https://www.banggood.com/DYS-30_5x30_5mm...mds=search

You can power your camera and VTX with the onboard 5V too.

As for TX, I would recommend the Taranis QX7... it's $40 more, but it will go a long way. I noticed you haven't picked a RX yet.

Sorry don't have experience with those batteries. A 4S 1500mah battery normally takes 30 to 60 mins to charge up (of course it depends on how powerful your charger is). About LiPo safety, have a read: https://oscarliang.com/lipo-battery-guide/

The OSD on the FC can show you the voltage level.

I think the martian II is a stronger frame IMO, or this one looks good too: https://banggood.com/XH210-210mm-Carbon-...mds=search

As for charger I would probably recommend one of the iSDT chargers, but you need to know how to find a good power supply for it. Otherwise the one you chose should work fine for now. https://www.banggood.com/search/isdt-charger.html

Compatibility will depend on your expertise. It's not the easiest combination to deal with. I think I would suggest going with individual ESCs instead of the 4-in-1. Technically, with a 4-in-1, you won't need a PDB, but then you have to deal with power for the VTX and Camera separately. I think for a beginner, I would keep the PDB, but ditch the 4-in-1 for individual ESCs. Also, I think I different VTX might be more suitable for a miniquad like this. Your range will be limited with that linear antenna. I would recommend a VTX that you can mount a circularly-polarized antena on (and get a pair of CP antennas - one for the VTX and one for the goggles).

(26-Jun-2017, 04:58 PM)Oscar Wrote: Iam getting two chargers as i thought it would be better as i dont have to watch the lipos if i have less time on my hands due to shorter charging times

why are you getting 2 chargers? LOL

I probably would recommend getting the DYS F4, although I don't have previous experience with it, it looks like a good deal, it has integrated OSD and PDB so you don't need the PDB:
https://www.banggood.com/DYS-30_5x30_5mm...mds=search

You can power your camera and VTX with the onboard 5V too.

As for TX, I would recommend the Taranis QX7... it's $40 more, but it will go a long way. I noticed you haven't picked a RX yet.

Sorry don't have experience with those batteries. A 4S 1500mah battery normally takes 30 to 60 mins to charge up (of course it depends on how powerful your charger is). About LiPo safety, have a read: https://oscarliang.com/lipo-battery-guide/

The OSD on the FC can show you the voltage level.

I think the martian II is a stronger frame IMO, or this one looks good too: https://banggood.com/XH210-210mm-Carbon-...mds=search

As for charger I would probably recommend one of the iSDT chargers, but you need to know how to find a good power supply for it. Otherwise the one you chose should work fine for now. https://www.banggood.com/search/isdt-charger.html

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(26-Jun-2017, 04:58 PM)Oscar Wrote: Iam getting two chargers as i thought it would be better as i dont have to watch the lipos if i have less time on my hands due to shorter charging times

why are you getting 2 chargers? LOL

I probably would recommend getting the DYS F4, although I don't have previous experience with it, it looks like a good deal, it has integrated OSD and PDB so you don't need the PDB:
https://www.banggood.com/DYS-30_5x30_5mm...mds=search

You can power your camera and VTX with the onboard 5V too.

As for TX, I would recommend the Taranis QX7... it's $40 more, but it will go a long way. I noticed you haven't picked a RX yet.

Sorry don't have experience with those batteries. A 4S 1500mah battery normally takes 30 to 60 mins to charge up (of course it depends on how powerful your charger is). About LiPo safety, have a read: https://oscarliang.com/lipo-battery-guide/

The OSD on the FC can show you the voltage level.

I think the martian II is a stronger frame IMO, or this one looks good too: https://banggood.com/XH210-210mm-Carbon-...mds=search

As for charger I would probably recommend one of the iSDT chargers, but you need to know how to find a good power supply for it. Otherwise the one you chose should work fine for now. https://www.banggood.com/search/isdt-charger.html

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(26-Jun-2017, 05:04 PM)sloscotty Wrote: Compatibility will depend on your expertise.  It's not the easiest combination to deal with.  I think I would suggest going with individual ESCs instead of the 4-in-1.  Technically, with a 4-in-1, you won't need a PDB, but then you have to deal with power for the VTX and Camera separately.  I think for a beginner, I would keep the PDB, but ditch the 4-in-1 for individual ESCs.  Also, I think I different VTX might be more suitable for a miniquad like this.  Your range will be limited with that linear antenna.  I would recommend a VTX that you can mount a circularly-polarized antena on (and get a pair of CP antennas - one for the VTX and one for the goggles).

any recommendations on a new VTX?

(26-Jun-2017, 04:49 PM)CaptainSlow88 Wrote: Hello, from what I can see everything should be ok, although you'll get plenty of replies from members who are much more qualified than I am about your build, and may correct me if I'm wrong.

One thing that would concern me is the 4-in-1 ESC you have opted for. They are great as they save on space and are easier to install, but from my own experience, when one ESC gets damaged or stops working (which has happened plenty of times) the entire thing needs to be replaced. You'd probably be better buying a pack of individual ESCs as they are more easily replaced when one gets fried or damaged. On the plus side, 20A ESCs with those motors run very nicely!

Also the Matek PDB is good in that it offers built-in BEC, but again, from experience, instead of using the included XT60 connector and soldering it directly to the board, I would buy an XT60 pigtail and solder it into the connectors on the board. It also increases the risk of that part of the circuit simply snapping off in a bad crash, as there's no flexibility. On one of my first builds, I soldered the XT60 directly to the board as directed, but after a few crashes it started coming loose to the point power was interrupted. Using a pigtail connector
there instead gives you a big flexibility when connecting the battery and won't cause as much damage in the event of a crash.

Good luck!

what do i need to do extra to get the pigtail XT60 connector?

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(26-Jun-2017, 05:04 PM)sloscotty Wrote: Compatibility will depend on your expertise.  It's not the easiest combination to deal with.  I think I would suggest going with individual ESCs instead of the 4-in-1.  Technically, with a 4-in-1, you won't need a PDB, but then you have to deal with power for the VTX and Camera separately.  I think for a beginner, I would keep the PDB, but ditch the 4-in-1 for individual ESCs.  Also, I think I different VTX might be more suitable for a miniquad like this.  Your range will be limited with that linear antenna.  I would recommend a VTX that you can mount a circularly-polarized antena on (and get a pair of CP antennas - one for the VTX and one for the goggles).

in response to the 4 in 1 esc, it is for complete ease of access as iam new to this hobby and i will look into those later.

(26-Jun-2017, 04:58 PM)Oscar Wrote: why are you getting 2 chargers? LOL

I probably would recommend getting the DYS F4, although I don't have previous experience with it, it looks like a good deal, it has integrated OSD and PDB so you don't need the PDB:
https://www.banggood.com/DYS-30_5x30_5mm...mds=search

You can power your camera and VTX with the onboard 5V too.

As for TX, I would recommend the Taranis QX7... it's $40 more, but it will go a long way. I noticed you haven't picked a RX yet.

Sorry don't have experience with those batteries. A 4S 1500mah battery normally takes 30 to 60 mins to charge up (of course it depends on how powerful your charger is). About LiPo safety, have a read: https://oscarliang.com/lipo-battery-guide/

The OSD on the FC can show you the voltage level.

I think the martian II is a stronger frame IMO, or this one looks good too: https://banggood.com/XH210-210mm-Carbon-...mds=search

As for charger I would probably recommend one of the iSDT chargers, but you need to know how to find a good power supply for it. Otherwise the one you chose should work fine for now. https://www.banggood.com/search/isdt-charger.html

OSD= On Screen Display Correct? what voltage should i stay above and where exactly is the OSD

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(26-Jun-2017, 05:04 PM)sloscotty Wrote: Compatibility will depend on your expertise.  It's not the easiest combination to deal with.  I think I would suggest going with individual ESCs instead of the 4-in-1.  Technically, with a 4-in-1, you won't need a PDB, but then you have to deal with power for the VTX and Camera separately.  I think for a beginner, I would keep the PDB, but ditch the 4-in-1 for individual ESCs.  Also, I think I different VTX might be more suitable for a miniquad like this.  Your range will be limited with that linear antenna.  I would recommend a VTX that you can mount a circularly-polarized antena on (and get a pair of CP antennas - one for the VTX and one for the goggles).

any idea on what the range would be with and without the VTX upgrade too?

(26-Jun-2017, 05:37 PM)dylanmlg21 Wrote: any idea on what the range would be with and without the VTX upgrade too?

It's not just range.  Linear polarized antennas need to be lined up properly for maximum benefit (range is very good then - and with 600mW, your range would be very good indeed - as long as your quad is within line-of-site and always upright).  Since your quad is always moving, that's not going to happen very often. 

Oscar actually has a very good article on his blog: https://oscarliang.com/linear-circular-p...tenna-fpv/

Please, stop quoting 30 line posts for a one line reply! It's not like the flow of messages is going to get lost in your own thread.

Anyway, here's my input.


> my first question is obviously are these parts compatible?

They are all compatible. The easy way to check, if you don't know enough yourself, is to post here!


> are these batterys any good?

I have not used ZOP batteries myself, but I've heard that they have a reputation where ZOP means "Zero Output Power". Make of that what you will.

> is this esc able to handle the 4S battery?

Yes.


> will everything work as intended, will the goggles hook up to the VTX or the transmitter work with the FC and such

If you assemble everything correctly, yes.


> iam have been turned away from lipos for quite some time due to safety reasons and iam willing to go so far to buy a lipo safety bag/other alternatives any lipo safety tips, am i able to charge them overnight or leave them unintended. and how dangerous are they really?

Using LiPo batteries safely is about common sense. You have a bag of lithium metal and volatile chemicals that stores large amounts of energy and can discharge that energy very very quickly. If you mistreat your batteries - by over-discharging them, leaving them fully charged for long periods, over-charging them or physically damaging them, they can catch fire very quickly and without warning.

Therefore, the first thing you should absolutely never do is leave them unattended when charging them!

The essentials about LiPo safety are well explained in the article on Oscar's site that he linked to.


> one of my main concerns is if these quad parts have any way of telling low voltage/battery or do i have to buy some sort of separate part

Getting a flight controller with an integrated OSD would be a much better idea than the one you have chosen which is quite old now.


> does this build leave room for future upgrades? better motors and batterys and other such things

You don't upgrade a quad; you build a new one! If you only have one quad and you break it in a crash then it's no more flying for you until you get the parts you need and fix your quad. Once you've built your first one, you'll find it hard to wait for the next build.

> do you guys have any knowledge on how long they will take to charge? i have searched but have found nothing

Batteries take around 90 minutes to charge with a charger that has enough power.


> my final questions is about the charger, will it have enough power and all that jazz to charge the battery, and how safe is it? i see hobbyking selling it so i have no concern they would sell and dangerous charger

I can't really say much about the charger. It would be really helpful if you actually posted links to the products and not a screen shot of your shopping basket.


> Also is the FS-ia6b or the FS-ia10b any better than what iam currently getting, its only $1 more than this and i dont know if its compatible

Ten channels are better than six! Both receivers can output PPM or iBus signals to your flight controller and both will be compatible with whatever you choose.

Finally, a few comments of my own about your shopping list:

An 1800mA/h battery is heavy. The heaviest battery I fly a 5" quad with is 1300mA/h. I've tried larger batteries and they make the quad feel like a flying bathtub.

As others have pointed out, the VTX you have chosen isn't really suitable for this build. Get a proper VTX and some circular polarised antennas for the VTX and the goggles. You'll have something that isn't as fragile and which gives clearer video over a larger distance.

You need lots of propellers! You will break many while learning.

I'd also agree with the suggestion that you should go for separate ESCs. If you crash and forget to disarm, there's a good chance that you'll kill an ESC if a propeller can't turn when you are still asking it to. Replacing one ESC is cheaper than replacing a 4-in-1. In a similar vein, you should never order just four ESCs or four motors. Order five so that you don't have to wait for spares to arrive when you inevitably break stuff.

I hope you already have stuff like a good quality temperature controlled soldering iron, solder, heatshrink, tie wraps, etc, etc, etc? If you don't have experience soldering, you need to learn before taking an iron to your components.

(26-Jun-2017, 05:30 PM)dylanmlg21 Wrote: what do i need to do extra to get the pigtail XT60 connector?

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You just need to get one like the one in the below link - 

Clicky

- cut it to whatever length you desire, tin the end of it and then solder the end of the wire to the connector spaces on the PDB. Just make sure you get the polarity correct - Red is +, Black is -.

Sorry Oscar, but I would not recommend the DYS F4. It has a lot of little annoyances due to the fact that it does not have it own target. As for a first build, it will be too much troubleshooting. Example, sbus inversion does not work on betaflight 3.17 works on 3.16 and UARTs are mislabeled. It is poorly designed. Getting current sensor and their owe 4in1 esc to work is a mess of wiring. If I have to recommend a F4 board, I would go with the original Matek F405 and PDB, new Matek F405 AIO, or the Kakute F4 AIO. These looked better designed and have their owe betaflight target.