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Aaron's Old R/C "Junk"
#16
It’s like 38 odd degrees yesterday so instead of turning on the A/C and staying inside my wife and I retreated to the garage and I started to clean up the wreck properly.  (OK I cleaned and she read a book while laying in a hammock) 


After the initial wash down the other evening it’s already nicer to work with.


The rear end really looks to be a real worry though.  That crud looked like it had come from a swamp.


Front end is a bit trashed as well, shocks look like they’re completely ruined etc.

Maybe it’s not going to be economically restorable?  


The knuckles (plastic) are in perfect condition, the “C” uprights not so much.  I know these are available still, they’re a common part with quite a few early Kyosho cars.


It blew apart pretty quick in the end.  By the time I hit this stage the required parts include a missing OT19 alloy drive hub, the front upright, a lower shock mount and spring platform.

Two of the belts looked bad and the bearings throughout are a mixed bag of rough.

On the plus side the chassis isn’t tweaked and even if a lot of screws are in poor condition nothing broke on disassembly.

The front diff felt notchy, while the rear was seized solid, along with the outdrives being quite rusty.



The dog bones are in terrible condition, one looks bent but all the swamp muck may be causing an optical illusion.


The rear diff had literally fused together with some kind of oxidisation of the pot metal used on the gears.  The front diff grease had dried up but will be fine.

At this point the thing is looking like it will be worth saving so time to embark on cleaning things up.
Cleaning is tedious but somewhat satisfying.

I have a couple of plastic (throw away) drink cups on the work bench. One has about 1” depth of WD40, the other Orange Agent.

Screws, gears, shafts etc all go into the Orange Agent to soak.  

Bearings, steel shafts, bushes and so on go into the WD40.

In general the screw come up nicely with just a decent soak and a rattling around every now and then. When they come out of that cup they get dried and put in a zip-lock bag with a squirt of wd40.  

The belt pullies get washed and the they get what all the plastic will ultimately get, a soak in a non-silicone plastic/trim restorer which improves the surface finish, helps break down stuff and acts as a lube in the screw holes.  

Lastly the rest of the plastics soak in a bowl of water with a little Orange Agent. They get individually cleaned last, dried, then soaked in the protectant for an hour or two at least.

So that’s my process.

While they’re soaking I’ve helped clear the inventory of the Aussie hobby shops with orders for all the missing/busted parts.



The dog bones cleaned up really nice after a soak, then a scrub with (stainless) steel wool soaked with WD40.  Only one is bent, the others are roughed up so I’ll polished their ball ends a touch before reassembly.  I have a single spare dog bone thanks to the other Spider also having a bent one (replacements are 2-per-pack).


The Jizz bag of belt pulleys and spur gear


Shocks being rebuilt.  If I get two working correctly that’d be ok.  I can improvise another pair, or worst case the entire set by raiding my Mini-Inferno parts stash.

Turns out they were falling apart but except for a broken lower ball-end and a missing spring platform complete.  The Mini-Inferno spring platforms and ball-ends are compatible so next step was to build a pair, see if the seals worked etc.


Built up two, no leaks or drama, so built the other two.  They cleaned up ok, although the alloy caps are a bit beaten.
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#17

The diffs cleaned up ok, this is the front and its worn but not destroyed.  

The rear diff will need some running in as the gears are now all cleaned up but have that “just cleaned if corrosion” roughness.  I may have to pull the diff after a bit of running and clean and repack it.


It’s looking great once assembled though and while the bearings are rough they’re ok.

I have moved the bearings from soaking in WD40 to soaking in oil prior to assembly.


Starting to reassemble now.  Sort of following instructions sort of winging it.


Brake and main belt drive pulley.  I flipped the brake “pads” so they will wear a bit on the other side.  I have a full replacement brake set on the way from Japan because the actuator lever is missing and while I could make one I don’t have rigid enough rod on hand. 


Unlike the previous builder I have the pulley the correct way around on both shafts.


This is pretty much the belt drive/transmission complete.  So much cleaner and while not perfect with the worn belts and the rough bearings it will be a good enough to test out.  Maybe in another 10 years I’ll be rebuilding again Smile



Rear suspension all completed rear for shocks and wheels.  

While it’s going to take a few days for the parts I’m missing to arrive they will be isolated to a front corner (and the motor/brake linkages) so far from being a limiting factor in assembly.  The parts are only coming from Sydney and Perth so should be in my hands during the week.
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#18


So I put the GS11R from the Wreck onto my original Spider. Still tuning (it's a tad warm outside ~38 degrees again) which makes standing on concrete somewhat unpleasant.
[-] The following 4 users Like Aaron's post:
  • Tom BD Bad, unseen, McDee, sloscotty
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#19


From my collection of random old stuff I have a Protoform Stratus body from the early 2000’s to go on one of these chassis. It’s a 190mm which is a touch narrow but not a terrible fit. Might just have to flare the wheel arches!

I also have a CEN Renault Clio v6 body which I may paint up.

And then there will be three...


Deal done for another running setup. This is going to be the last one.... maybe....

The correct air filter installed


It’s supposed to be foam towards the back of the car but I’m a rebel.



Brake and throttle linkages from the FD-65 linkage set assembled as per the book. The brake rod has also been changed to the same configuration on the running chassis as it wasn’t completed as per book.

I’m really not great at painting bodies but this one seems to have some out OK.

Protoform Stratus Touring body painted with Tamiya PS61 Metallic Orange and backed with Tamiya Bright Silver.





Normally I’m too heavy handed with the initial coats and get bleeding under the window masks which I seem to avoided this time.

Adapted a SP-64 side undertray pair to the Mk2. I believe these were originally for the Mk1 Spider and they require small amounts of trimming around the steering Servo and steering blocks to fit. Just a little file here and there Smile

As my original chassis was missing the side bumpers (part of the SP-54 Bumper Parts which are very hard to find) I figure this is a good compromise solution.







After a small amount of running and seeing the condition of the screws under both chassis I can now fully understand the attraction of the countersunk chassis option!
[-] The following 3 users Like Aaron's post:
  • unseen, Tom BD Bad, sloscotty
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#20


I got the body finished Smile
[-] The following 3 users Like Aaron's post:
  • unseen, Tom BD Bad, sloscotty
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#21
Very cool!! Cool
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#22
And you said you weren't great at painting bodies..? That has come out great! Nice to see you getting it a bit sideways at the end there!
Windless fields and smokeless builds
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#23
I’m all grown up and responsible like...


Been battling with tuning and breakages unfortunately.
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#24
Great thread! I too have been repairing my ground RCs. My 100mph Rustler blew out a MIP X-duty axle early last year and has been a shelf Queen since. As well as my sons 1/18th A979 which needed some new lipos and a front end/shock rebuild. Also installing a bearing upgrade for him. (He's only 5 lol) Parts will be here Monday Big Grin

Your HSP truck takes me back about 15-20 years to my nitro T-maxx days. Aahh the smell of nitro!
The Obsession IS Real!
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