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Aaron's Old R/C "Junk"
#16
It’s like 38 odd degrees yesterday so instead of turning on the A/C and staying inside my wife and I retreated to the garage and I started to clean up the wreck properly.  (OK I cleaned and she read a book while laying in a hammock) 

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After the initial wash down the other evening it’s already nicer to work with.

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The rear end really looks to be a real worry though.  That crud looked like it had come from a swamp.

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Front end is a bit trashed as well, shocks look like they’re completely ruined etc.

Maybe it’s not going to be economically restorable?  

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The knuckles (plastic) are in perfect condition, the “C” uprights not so much.  I know these are available still, they’re a common part with quite a few early Kyosho cars.

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It blew apart pretty quick in the end.  By the time I hit this stage the required parts include a missing OT19 alloy drive hub, the front upright, a lower shock mount and spring platform.

Two of the belts looked bad and the bearings throughout are a mixed bag of rough.

On the plus side the chassis isn’t tweaked and even if a lot of screws are in poor condition nothing broke on disassembly.

The front diff felt notchy, while the rear was seized solid, along with the outdrives being quite rusty.

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The dog bones are in terrible condition, one looks bent but all the swamp muck may be causing an optical illusion.

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The rear diff had literally fused together with some kind of oxidisation of the pot metal used on the gears.  The front diff grease had dried up but will be fine.

At this point the thing is looking like it will be worth saving so time to embark on cleaning things up.
Cleaning is tedious but somewhat satisfying.

I have a couple of plastic (throw away) drink cups on the work bench. One has about 1” depth of WD40, the other Orange Agent.

Screws, gears, shafts etc all go into the Orange Agent to soak.  

Bearings, steel shafts, bushes and so on go into the WD40.

In general the screw come up nicely with just a decent soak and a rattling around every now and then. When they come out of that cup they get dried and put in a zip-lock bag with a squirt of wd40.  

The belt pullies get washed and the they get what all the plastic will ultimately get, a soak in a non-silicone plastic/trim restorer which improves the surface finish, helps break down stuff and acts as a lube in the screw holes.  

Lastly the rest of the plastics soak in a bowl of water with a little Orange Agent. They get individually cleaned last, dried, then soaked in the protectant for an hour or two at least.

So that’s my process.

While they’re soaking I’ve helped clear the inventory of the Aussie hobby shops with orders for all the missing/busted parts.

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The dog bones cleaned up really nice after a soak, then a scrub with (stainless) steel wool soaked with WD40.  Only one is bent, the others are roughed up so I’ll polished their ball ends a touch before reassembly.  I have a single spare dog bone thanks to the other Spider also having a bent one (replacements are 2-per-pack).

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The Jizz bag of belt pulleys and spur gear

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Shocks being rebuilt.  If I get two working correctly that’d be ok.  I can improvise another pair, or worst case the entire set by raiding my Mini-Inferno parts stash.

Turns out they were falling apart but except for a broken lower ball-end and a missing spring platform complete.  The Mini-Inferno spring platforms and ball-ends are compatible so next step was to build a pair, see if the seals worked etc.

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Built up two, no leaks or drama, so built the other two.  They cleaned up ok, although the alloy caps are a bit beaten.
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#17
[Image: 6db09c659624950af2b948db91f6c038.jpg]
The diffs cleaned up ok, this is the front and its worn but not destroyed.  

The rear diff will need some running in as the gears are now all cleaned up but have that “just cleaned if corrosion” roughness.  I may have to pull the diff after a bit of running and clean and repack it.

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It’s looking great once assembled though and while the bearings are rough they’re ok.

I have moved the bearings from soaking in WD40 to soaking in oil prior to assembly.

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Starting to reassemble now.  Sort of following instructions sort of winging it.

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Brake and main belt drive pulley.  I flipped the brake “pads” so they will wear a bit on the other side.  I have a full replacement brake set on the way from Japan because the actuator lever is missing and while I could make one I don’t have rigid enough rod on hand. 

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Unlike the previous builder I have the pulley the correct way around on both shafts.

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This is pretty much the belt drive/transmission complete.  So much cleaner and while not perfect with the worn belts and the rough bearings it will be a good enough to test out.  Maybe in another 10 years I’ll be rebuilding again Smile


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Rear suspension all completed rear for shocks and wheels.  

While it’s going to take a few days for the parts I’m missing to arrive they will be isolated to a front corner (and the motor/brake linkages) so far from being a limiting factor in assembly.  The parts are only coming from Sydney and Perth so should be in my hands during the week.
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#18


So I put the GS11R from the Wreck onto my original Spider. Still tuning (it's a tad warm outside ~38 degrees again) which makes standing on concrete somewhat unpleasant.
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#19
[Image: c97f059c7bf2ed7c0a5a6e5939cd4573.jpg]

From my collection of random old stuff I have a Protoform Stratus body from the early 2000’s to go on one of these chassis. It’s a 190mm which is a touch narrow but not a terrible fit. Might just have to flare the wheel arches!

I also have a CEN Renault Clio v6 body which I may paint up.

And then there will be three...
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Deal done for another running setup. This is going to be the last one.... maybe....

The correct air filter installed
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It’s supposed to be foam towards the back of the car but I’m a rebel.

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Brake and throttle linkages from the FD-65 linkage set assembled as per the book. The brake rod has also been changed to the same configuration on the running chassis as it wasn’t completed as per book.

I’m really not great at painting bodies but this one seems to have some out OK.

Protoform Stratus Touring body painted with Tamiya PS61 Metallic Orange and backed with Tamiya Bright Silver.

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Normally I’m too heavy handed with the initial coats and get bleeding under the window masks which I seem to avoided this time.

Adapted a SP-64 side undertray pair to the Mk2. I believe these were originally for the Mk1 Spider and they require small amounts of trimming around the steering Servo and steering blocks to fit. Just a little file here and there Smile

As my original chassis was missing the side bumpers (part of the SP-54 Bumper Parts which are very hard to find) I figure this is a good compromise solution.

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After a small amount of running and seeing the condition of the screws under both chassis I can now fully understand the attraction of the countersunk chassis option!
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#20


I got the body finished Smile
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#21
Very cool!! Cool
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#22
And you said you weren't great at painting bodies..? That has come out great! Nice to see you getting it a bit sideways at the end there!
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#23
I’m all grown up and responsible like...


Been battling with tuning and breakages unfortunately.
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#24
Great thread! I too have been repairing my ground RCs. My 100mph Rustler blew out a MIP X-duty axle early last year and has been a shelf Queen since. As well as my sons 1/18th A979 which needed some new lipos and a front end/shock rebuild. Also installing a bearing upgrade for him. (He's only 5 lol) Parts will be here Monday Big Grin

Your HSP truck takes me back about 15-20 years to my nitro T-maxx days. Aahh the smell of nitro!
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#25
It's been months since I've updated this thread and with winter coming to Canberra I'm spending less time outside in the garage.  

So I’ve been having a bit of fun with the Spider - technically the first chassis, with the GS11R from the second chassis.

However the GS11R is a little finicky and tended to leak. A lot.

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Not the best pics but you get the idea.  The engine basically leaks fuel at such a level it is wet with fuel and there’s a spray of fuel coming off the Flywheel and it’s also messing with the one-way on the other end.

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So it’s out with the motor. 

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Spray down with citrus based cleaner.  

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Carefully hose off, and lean up to dry.
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#26
So I got tired of the leaking and installed a brand new ASP 12CX

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The blue-head engine on the right. It's fantastic, runs smooth, easy etc. Now with winter I need to return it a bit but so so so much nicer than the old motors.

Meanwhile we've been bashing and running around with the old Baja Champs


It's great to be able to just get a car out and smash through a few batteries. This is cut from 45 minutes of running with the kid from over the road with his 2wd truggy.
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#27
I’d made reference to the third Spider as being nicknamed “Screwed” due to the complete crapness of the screws.

I solved this through an order with Plaza Japan.

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These are black finish instead of silver finish that came with the kits, will make the build a bit different but I think it’ll be more interesting for it.

I do need to pop out to the bearing and seal place to get some motor seals. I’m hoping the hobby shop out that way still has some genuine mesh wheels still in stock by then. I really want this third chassis to end up being a functionally complete one, but more of a roller/driveable display chassis.

A few parts short still although I have a lead on a hobby shop in greater Kuala Lumpur with a heap of NOS parts and I’ll be in KL and a few other parts of SE Asia in a couple of months for long enough to make a some detours to check out shops.

We got the other Baja Champ our today to hack around with some sizeable jumps.

Then the wheel fell off and it was more than just a loose screw.

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Yep the notorious curse of the TL01 suspension mounting tags strikes again.

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Luckily it didn’t contaminate the gearbox so the repair was going to be quick. This was the small sub-part of the central spine that I didn’t replace when putting the new spine in around Christmas. So in reality that mount had lasted every single crash in the last 15 years.

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Hopefully this will keep it running for a bit longer.
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#28
Much fun and running has gone on since and I've ben slowly reassembling the shelf queen Spider Mk2 and am now in the position of needing a pair of wheels for it ($$$) and painting up the body.

So to make life interesting I bought this a month ago.
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2000 vintage Kyosho Inferno TR-15 was acquired in a single bid eBay strike.

Obviously needs restoration and I’ll likely do it to the same standard as the third Spider (which I haven’t documented as strongly here compared to RC Groups).

Seller says it’s missing a front driveshaft/dogbone so I’ll get a set of those.

Unlike the Spiders parts for these are reasonably common which is nice.
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#29
Went off to the local shop a few weeks back to get some more fuel, couldn’t resist rummaging in the $5 bin and came up with a GPM Racing Carbon brake disk for the Spider Smile

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Plus I finally got some Red HiTemp gasket maker which should resolve some of my leaks and loose exhaust problems.

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Then my wife and I decided to have some fun...

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Let’s say the HSP truck may need a set of wheels soon.



Because hoons
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#30
The TR15 Inferno:

Seller packed it well and included the original box.

As I’ve been on a crash course learning about TR15’s I have been able to work out:
- The fitted engine is a GS15R as expected. It is gummed up (seized) but salvageable.
- The extra engine is a GXR15 from the TR15 Readyset. It’s a slide throttle carb instead of roller which means different servo horn and rod setup
- The front suspension was converted to Readyset Arms (non adjustable) but the rear is as-per-kit. Readyset Arms are cheaply available although I don’t think it would be that hard to go back to kit style as I just need the rods - it looks like the rod ends that are kit specific are in the spare parts.
- Has the Spider out-drives with steel cone fit hex’s. Hence 5mm axles.

Now about the buggy itself:
- There’s quite a few “wrong” screws but no harm done.
- No broken plastics
- Missing driveshaft (Kyosho 92645 as expected)
- Missing a suspension ball (7.6mm??? Massive thing)
- Shock diaphragms all stuffed
- Gummed up motor and fuel tank
- Every.Single.Pivot is tight
- Body useable
- Wheels useable
- Tyres will do (although the $10 wheel and three sets I got for the Bajas fit anyways)
- Fully bushed as per kit so going bearings is good.

On with some pics:

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All the “loose” bits including spare wishbones and arms for the front end.

The spanners, spare motor and clutch parts for it. A bunch of used plastic clutch shoes too.

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GXR15 motor in very serviceable condition - has a couple of bumps but that’s it.

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Obviously been sitting for years with surface rust, gummed fuel in tank etc.

However it’s all pretty clean, no traces of massive fuel leaks or epic wear on parts.

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5 screws and the motor is out. Will partially strip it to get enough wd40 into it to start freeing it up.

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Front corner apart to check for more missing bits. Nope just a 7.8mm ball and driveshaft.

Having to validate the build instructions between two different manuals and exploded diagrams will suck.

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It’s really clean in general so when in use it wasn’t leaking excessively or abused too badly.
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