(03-Nov-2022, 09:33 AM)ph2t Wrote: OK, I just want to say that video you posted is very entertaining mate.  You had me laughing, you're like an angry bardwell, lol...

"It is what I would say if I wanted it to fly like shit, because it flew like shit...." AND this nugget "Whatever is making the gyro go into tourette's mode...."

Seriously did anyone watch this video?  Damn funny....

lol, thank you bud! Appreciate that.

To be fair I was quite angry. When it was released I linked it to a bunch of local guys who also ended up buying it, so I felt really guilty since they experienced the same issue.

It really sucks that JHEMCU discontinued the AIO 35amp version that had worked so good because of the chip shortage.
I’m using a HAKRC AIO that avant quads used to replace the JHEMCU and it’s working good so far.
Unfortunately it’s out of stock also.

I’m tempted to use a whoop AIO but which one I don’t know.
Hopefully JHEMCU will come out with another 20 by 20 that is reliable as the older 35amp version.

Today the weather was perfect for flying. I did some more tests. Finally, I tried to combine an additional capacitor of 470uF/6.3V on the 3.3V power rail, which directly feeds the Gyro, and 1000uF/25V on the Vbat. And what do you think, did it help? Well, no way, this UAV Tech discord advice is worthless. I said from the beginning that if there is no noise on all axes, it will not be noise from a poorly designed or filtered FC.

I flew three more batteries, and tuned the last thing that wasn't 100% tuned, the D-Term filter. Tuning this helped much more than wasting many days trying everything possible and impossible. To be clear, the gyro is still noisy, roll axis noise cannot be removed, but a more conservative setting of the D-Term filter helped to slightly improve the propwash. I mean it's better, but definitely not what it could be, definitely not for FPV freestyle ... and as I've tried, the whole thing gets even more messed up when the weight goes up, so with a bigger battery, or Naked GoPro. I know it can be much better with a heavier 3.5 inch quad solution, my Smart35 frame flies absolutely great with F7 FC, but with a naked GoPro and the necessary battery it is over 250g.

It really pisses me off, I spent a lot of time with it, I will never make the same mistake again, that I would choose a frame to stick to a manufacturer that makes garbage ... and doesn't answer emails, only scumbags who are not worth mentioning behave like this.

(04-Nov-2022, 04:17 PM)Rob3ddd Wrote: It really sucks that JHEMCU discontinued the AIO 35amp version that had worked so good because of the chip shortage.
 I’m using a HAKRC AIO that avant quads used to replace the JHEMCU and it’s working good so far.
Unfortunately it’s out of stock also.

I’m tempted to use a whoop AIO but which one I don’t know.
Hopefully JHEMCU will come out with another 20 by 20 that is reliable as the older 35amp version.

The problem is that the original frame is designed in such a way that, due to the distance of the standoffs from each other, nothing larger than a 20x20 AIO, which has a maximum length of 38 mm, can fit. Just a mm longer and you will touch the front standoffs. As far as I know, only 20x20 AIOs from JHMCU and Fettec G4 (KISS firmware) have dimensions up to 38 mm.

So if you want a Scythe, order a modified bottom plate for a rotated 25x25 AIO, there is a solution from many manufacturers, it just doesn't look very nice, but I think it is better functional and less looks than a look and non-functional quad.

New AIO arrived today. It is version 1.1, so FETs with SMD code 0302A which is JMSL0302AU FETs are used. These are the same FETs I have on the current noisy gyro AIO. The boot button is the smaller type. When I have time I will resolder it all and give it a try.

(09-Nov-2022, 09:02 PM)MomoBrut Wrote: New AIO arrived today. It is version 1.1, so FETs with SMD code 0203A which is JMSL0302AU FETs are used. These are the same FETs I have on the current noisy gyro AIO. The gyro is from 2021, which looks a bit optimistic, the boot button is the smaller type. When I have time I will resolder it all and give it a try.

Yeah that's the new design. Hopefully this one works better for you.

(10-Nov-2022, 05:26 AM)Recursion Wrote: Yeah that's the new design. Hopefully this one works better for you.

Just for fun. In the meantime, the seller (not the JHMCE manufacturer) wrote to me with delay. They say that the problem is caused by BF 4.3.0 and that I have to use BF 4.2.8 which the AIO comes with. I'm assuming you're using BF 4.3, because it's not obvious from the pictures you sent, you only have a section of the spectrum there. Log parameters are not visible.

(10-Nov-2022, 06:33 AM)MomoBrut Wrote: Just for fun. In the meantime, the seller (not the JHMCE manufacturer) wrote to me with delay. They say that the problem is caused by BF 4.3.0 and that I have to use BF 4.2.8 which the AIO comes with. I'm assuming you're using BF 4.3, because it's not obvious from the pictures you sent, you only have a section of the spectrum there. Log parameters are not visible.

I'm on 4.3, and it flies significantly better than 4.2. Not buying that at all.

Today I resoldered the new AIO and only had time for one battery. And guess what? Well, the Scythe is flying awesome now. There is not much to add to the images, the noise is gone, the minimal filters I use work flawlessly. It's just that I spent an awful lot of wasted time on it because JHEMCU makes junk and the seller who sells it is a scumbag.

There is one small thing left, something resonates for me around 40 Hz, which can be seen in the last picture. Probably the antenna or the battery connection cable, that still remains to be fine-tuned, but that's trivial.

It's been a long time since one battery gave me such joy and a feeling of relaxation and accomplishment.

I'm extremely happy you got it to fly correctly. Sucks you had a problem with the defective gyro they gave you.

I'd love to see some footage when you get used to flying it.

I took the screwless TPU Naked GoPro mount I made for the Scythe out over a lake I was at for a weekend for some casual flying to see how well it would perform. It exceeded my expectations. 

Nice video man. I saw it the first day you released it. I want to use the Scythe for more than just flying, so I'm working on a mount that will allow quick camera swapping between quads. I usually shoot indoors or near people, so I need a 2.5 inch cine whoop with guards. And at the same time, I usually need a wider and more dynamic shot, so I just move the camera from the cine whoop to the Scythe and I have a dynamic and greater field of view that is already outside of people. And both drones use the same battery set. And always up to 250 g, so no fuss.

I'm starting to build the second piece of Scythe, this time the LR version. I haven't quite started yet, I'm rather thinking about how to make it work. I don't want to change motors, I want to use motors with the same KV, I would like to get to a cruise flight time of over 15-20 minutes and a total distance of at least 15-20 km, to have safe reserve for 10-15 min flight times when some wind occurs, which corresponds to an average speed of something like 60 km/h. I want to use only 3s HV batterie, e.g. 1550 mAh, which weighs 100 g and is still fine in terms of size. All in all, including the Naked Hero 8 and the GPS module, I should have a sufficient reserve of up to 250g. I will use the Polar Nano camera so that it can be flown in poor lighting conditions. I haven't calculated it yet, but based on my experience it might be even bolder.

My 7 inch LR flies for over 23 minutes at an average speed of over 80 km/h, flies a little over 26 km and weighs almost 1.7 kg. So the Scythe LR will be a completely different animal.

I am concerned about the reliability of Naked Vista. So far I haven't had a problem with it, I have about 3 hours of flying time. So I'd appreciate information on your experience with Naked Vista reliability. And have you ever try the 3s battery for your motors (with about the same KV as I remember)? 3850 KV motors should be very efficient at 3s. The Scythe is bloodily overpowered with lightweight 4s.

I’m glad you got your new build dialed in and found a reliable AIO.
3.5 inch has become my favorite size micro freestyle quad.
I’m still waiting for AIO 20 by 20 to come out but I may have to settle for whoop AIO.

That's right, the 3.5inch is simply the best quad under 250g to have some weight to spare and believe me, some weight to spare is always needed. The 3.5inch is still very quiet, so as a cruiser flying at a slightly higher altitude, people won't register it above their heads. The 3inch flies worse than 3.5inch, you can tell. The 4inch does not fit under 250g. And if it doesn't fit, it doesn't make sense in my opinion, then I just take a 5inch and fly without compromise where there are no people.

I started building the LR version. I started from the back. I designed and printed two mounts for the Geprc Hero 8, which I have been using for a long time, it is very reliable, I recommend it. Even though I have two of these cameras, I need to quickly move them between quads, so some screwing is out of the question, changing between quads is then a matter of a moment and I need that. Sure, the solution is a bit heavier, but that's why I have the weight reserves...

I designed two mounts with two angles, for cruising I have a proven angle of 23 degrees as a compromise between different drones up to 7 inches. The other has a 35 degree angle for faster and more dynamic flying. I might do another angle when it's done.

The camera slides in from the side and that's it...

I’m in the process of getting parts for a light weight 3.5” but can’t make up my mind on motors.
The 1404 are giving you plenty of power and acceleration without pulling your battery down?

I am tempted to try t-motor P1604 3800Kv but it’s still fairly new and not much reviews or testing.