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1st Quad Build HELP!
#16
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1...LDq8oMyvsp
That is the link to the pictures as they are too large to upload anything else just ask thanks a lot
Luke
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#17
Looks like your iron wasn't quite hot enough for the thicker wires of ESC power, a tip my buddy gave me, is try to hold the iron as close to vertical as possible, this encourages the solder to flow off the tip. Another thing is try to leave as little as 1-2mm of stripped wire when soldering, I know plastic insulation can be a pain when it contracts with the heat.

I see a few joints where there is a bit more exposed copper than necessary, the ESC 2 Neg could have done with a bit more attention to tinning too, it has quite a few stray strands. With the vibrations and G forces that these craft experience, wires can shift and short out.

The VTX - and ESC 3 - look like they could be shorted, also the LED and RX4 pads have a small blob of solder that might have tracked between the 2?

Is there a reason you haven't used the PDB pads for ESC power, it would have given you a bit more space to work on the FC?

Just FYI - if you upload pics to imgur.com, you can link to the photos so they are displayed in the thread.
Windless fields and smokeless builds
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#18
Thanks for the info! I'll get my test meter on it this evening and see if I can find any issues in those places and I might give the soldering another go moving the esc's to the pdb below. Thanks a lot!
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  • Tom BD Bad
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#19
The flight controller you have is a particularly challenging one to use if you're not very experienced with a soldering iron.

Over and above what Tom has already noted, I would say that either your soldering iron is too cold, or it's too hot and is burning all the flux out of your solder before it has a chance to do its job. I also see little splashes of solder over the board and these tiny splashes can easily cause a short.

Your only option at this point is to remove the flight controller from the quad. Go over it with a magnifying glass and remove all the solder splashes and see if the LEDs light up when you connect if to your computer with the USB connection. If it starts working again, you can attempt to re-install it. As Tom suggests, as you already have an unnecessary PDB in your build, connect the ESC power wires to the PDB so that you have more room to work.

What kind of soldering iron and solder are you using? If this is the first time you have worked with a soldering iron, get some hobby circuit board and practise your soldering skills on that until you can reliably make smooth and shiny joints without using too much solder.
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#20
Used a soldering iron plenty of times but I think I've been having trouble as trying to use up some solder and it's about twenty years old. Soldering iron is my brother's. It's an SMD rework station so works from 100 to 500°c and has hot air gun attached. I'll try stripping everything off the board to trouble shoot it thanks.
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#21
Some new solder might be a wise investment. It must be rosin cored solder.

After 20 years, it's possible that the flux has degraded and no longer helps the solder to flow and wet the joint properly.

Also, if you're using a good temperature controlled iron, don't set the temperature too high. If the flux burns off in a big cloud of smoke and the tip of the soldering iron starts to turn blue, your temperature is way too high.

I use a temperature around 320°C for standard 60/40 leaded solder and slightly lower for 63/37 eutectic solder. Only use leaded solder! The lead free stuff is useless for hobby soldering.
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