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1300 & 1500 MAh
#1
What is the real world difference between flying 1300 MAh verses 1500 MAh..............?

Do you get a noticeable difference in flight time..........30-45 seconds ?

Does the extra weight of the 1500 MAh pack make attaching a Go-Pro not feasible ?

Does the extra weight of the 1500 MAh pack affect flight performance ? 

Thank you

Danny Z
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  • Vman677
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#2
I doubt the weight difference would offset the 90-100g of a GoPro. Depending on battery quality flight time differences may be intangible as well.
Builds: Mini-Quad  -  Tricopter 
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#3
interesting, I would have thought the flight time would have been a little longer.........................
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#4
The answer is, as always, it depends.

Every extra gramme of weight is a second less time in the air for a given battery. Flight time is a function of thrust, motor and propeller efficiency, all up weight and battery capacity.

If you increase battery capacity, you also increase weight. This means you need more thrust to achieve a hover and the more thrust you ask for from a particular propulsion system, the less efficient it becomes. Once you pass the point where you need more than 50% throttle just to hover, adding further weight will actually start to decrease overall flight time.

It is often hard to determine where the break point is. Many motor manufacturers don't publish the full specifications of their motors and without knowing the efficiency of the motor and propeller you are using, you are left with an educated guess as the best method of determining flight time for a particular all up weight.
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#5
I fly both regularly (Tattu 4s batteries) and in my experience the 1550mah get 45 seconds more flight time.
I don't fly with any HD cam though.

Lately I've been seeing people who used to say 1300 was the only choice to make, switching to 1500s. The main reason why is that motors have gotten so much more powerful that the weight savings you get from a 1300 is negligible.

So if you're flying modern motors, I say go 1500s.

In fact, people are starting to run 6s rigs, and those are running 1800-2200s.
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#6
(07-Apr-2017, 08:48 PM)jamesw Wrote: In fact, people are starting to run 6s rigs, and those are running 1800-2200s.

1800mah 6s weighs how much? 350g? Possible, but only on way bigger rigs, not on a miniquad.

@dannyz: racers use 1300-1500mah packs. To be honest, the difference between them is negligible during a race so it is a matter of personal preference. Both are way too small to give enough current for modern motors Wink but anything bigger is just too big ;p
Find me on Youtube and Instagram. I currently fly: DRC Aura, NOX5R, Minimalist 112 and drive a scrap RC car
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#7
I know that Maddystuntz runs the 6s rigs... and it's exciting as an idea and all... but I don't think it's the cells that are the reason his videos are the way they are... I think it's easily 50% cinematography talent... and 50% baddass flying talent. I am not sure it's the extra voltage... I am just not convinced yet...

I only have about 3 or 4 months of honest experience in the hobby but still... I have been seeing folks on the youtubez doing some of his tricks that are not devout 6sers...

I would think... lighter>more cells... of course... I am learning on a vortex which is basically the Pontiac (heavy) of quads but still :p Also I should remind those who haven't seen from other posts... I used to be a Miata racer and happily outran the Vettes Wink
carl.vegas
Current Quads: Operational: Diatone GT2 200 In need of repair: Bumble Bee, tehStein,  Slightly modified Vortex 250 
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#8
I would think... lighter>more cells... of course... I am learning on a vortex which is basically the Pontiac (heavy) of quads but still :p Also I should remind those who haven't seen from other posts... I used to be a Miata racer and happily outran the Vettes Wink
> Yaaayy, Miata,man!!  Thumbs Up Big Grin 
Light & nimble takes balls, though - but if you've got "one of those moments", you can kick a Ferrari's ass all across the racecourse (..except for maybe the "any-idiot-can-go-straights"..), I once had a day like that,
and I just kept taking over on the inside of turns - to properly dishonor the aristocrats Cool
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#9
..again, I'm the noob here,
but I was asking myself about aerodynamics lately when I saw a Tattu "race cube" and I was asking myself "what's the point of that??!!"
I mean, if the batt specs are identical, why would someone want to increase the cW-ratio of the quad/lipo-system?
Resistance to airflow is inversely proportional to the surface area facing it, and the pressure applied to it (speed..), so it might not play such a role in acro, where movements are tendencially vertical and the facing area is the "back" of the quad (disc area plane), but when racing, everything holding back horizontal movement is not welcome, so why would someone square out lipos for that purpose?!?!!! Thinking
Another factor, I imagine, could be that shifting air resistance away from the center of the quad will increase the effort of the FC, thus power consumption, in order to keep the craft level, as it constantly has to counteract a tilting momentum..?
I may be totally off course, as a newbie, but I figured this could play a role..
Why the hell "race-cube" Lipos, anyone?

Geehh, just realized that the craft is angulated when going at high speed! - *embarassed..
I still don't see the point of race-cube-Lipos, though..
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#10
(08-Apr-2017, 07:01 AM)campagnium Wrote: ..again, I'm the noob here,
but I was asking myself about aerodynamics lately when I saw a Tattu "race cube" and I was asking myself "what's the point of that??!!"
I mean, if the batt specs are identical, why would someone want to increase the cW-ratio of the quad/lipo-system?
Resistance to airflow is inversely proportional to the surface area facing it, and the pressure applied to it (speed..), so it might not play such a role in acro, where movements are tendencially vertical and the facing area is the "back" of the quad (disc area plane), but when racing, everything holding back horizontal movement is not welcome, so why would someone square out lipos for that purpose?!?!!! Thinking
Another factor, I imagine, could be that shifting air resistance away from the center of the quad will increase the effort of the FC, thus power consumption, in order to keep the craft level, as it constantly has to counteract a tilting momentum..?
I may be totally off course, as a newbie, but I figured this could play a role..
Why the hell "race-cube" Lipos, anyone?

Geehh, just realized that the craft is angulated when going at high speed! - *embarassed..
I still don't see the point of race-cube-Lipos, though..
..maybe better braking before turns?
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#11
Great info !
I may buy some 1500 lipo and see what the real difference is for my type of flying !
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#12
Higher S means faster response to throttle change so I assume that is why Matty uses them.

Cube packs have better weight distrubution than packs we usually use. That may be more important for tower style builds
Find me on Youtube and Instagram. I currently fly: DRC Aura, NOX5R, Minimalist 112 and drive a scrap RC car
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#13
(10-Apr-2017, 12:52 PM)KonradS Wrote: Cube packs have better weight distrubution than packs we usually use. That may be more important for tower style builds

I saw those cubes... If I start flying an x-frame I'll probably give them a try... Although I would hate to like them so much that all my other batteries become obsolete, I've already spent way too much on batteries at this point for them to be useless x.x
carl.vegas
Current Quads: Operational: Diatone GT2 200 In need of repair: Bumble Bee, tehStein,  Slightly modified Vortex 250 
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#14
I like longer flatter batteries for things like the Chameleon and other low-rider type frames as it keeps the weight closer to the centre of the quad.
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#15
Also keep in mid that if you have a really AMP hungry setup the 1300 can't deliver as many AMPS as a 1500
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